Last night’s pilgrim supper was with random members of my Camino family and was the best pilgrim meal yet. They even gave us more red wine when we asked for some. The Albergue San Nicholas in Larasonna is lovely. Clean, good facilities, only about 400m from the Camino - but at about 10pm at night it sounded as though a pack of dogs was having a barking competition. It was far too hot to close the windows (6 of us in a smallish room).
Tiredness, and possibly the weed fumes emanating from one of my room mates meant that I did fall asleep quite quickly. I woke at 4am with the munches! I couldn’t get back to sleep and, knowing I had a longer distance to cover today, I decided at 5am get up as quietly as possible, moved all my kit to the corridor and got ready to leave. I was on my way by 5.20am, almost back at the trail when I looked down from the bridge and thought about paddling there yesterday with my sunglasses on. I put my hand to my head - no sunglasses! Back I went to the albergue, snuck up the stairs and retrieved them! They had fallen under my bed when I was moving my kit. All my roommates were still asleep. Apparently no one heard me leave. I started a new walk on my Garmin and set off again!
There is an amazing freedom to this solo lark, I didn’t need to wait for anyone, discuss my plans - I could just go! The same has been true throughout this stay. If I want to stop, I can. If I want to skip a meal - so what?
My aim today was to get to Pamplona by 10am, spend some time there, eat breakfast and then do the second half of today’s walk to Uterga. I had a lovely text conversation with Pat - who pointed out some of the ‘high points; on today’s route as I walked through the deserted town af Arre. I got to Pamplona (about 10 miles from my start) in time to hear all the church bells ringing for 9am. I paused my Garmin and stepped off the trail for a wander around this beauful town. I practised my Spanish, ordering breakfast, asking where the bathroom was and where it was possible to buy postcards and stamps. As I achieved all these tasks I can only assume that my Spanish was understandable!
As I went to leave Pamplona I heard my name being called. It was Eva, who I shared a room with on my first night and again last night, She was just arriving in Pamplona and was the first pilgrim I had seen all day. I thought about staying for another coffee, but was conscious that it was getting warmer and warmer so made the choice to carry on.
The second half of today was tough. It was 34c, there was very little shade. I was making good time when the path was smooth, but towards the end the loose stones slowed me right down, My feet were hot and sore. Uphill was fine, downhill was better, but these rocks - even on the flat - made me miserable! I couldn’t look about me at the views (stunning by the way) as I was worried my tired legs and stupid feet would do something silly! I saw lots of people suffering. One gentleman was sitting in the shade waiting for a taxi. I gave him half my remaining water as he looked done in, I offered to stay with him, but he assured me he was OK,
I’d never been more relieved to see the Albergue for this evening! And the shower felt amazing. I’ve done my laundry, had a beer and shared a bowl of chips with the young Aussie PhD student who slept above me last night. I bumped into him as he arrived in Uterga and he is in the Albergue over the road from mine. He agreed that today’s distance was stupid in this heat!
Tomorrow I will walk a slightly shorter distance, but the route is much flatter- I;m calling it a ‘recovery’ day!
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