And, just like that, it is done!
An early(ish) start, because I was awake, meant that I was on the trails before they got too busy. I set myself a target of getting to Santiago before 11am. Not a hugely challenging target to be fair, but one that meant I would have plenty of time in the afternoon to complete boring tasks like laundry.
I thought that I remembered this section clearly. I’m my mind it was all downhill and mostly alongside the airport. I also remember it being hugely crowded. An early start, combined with being slightly closer to Santiago at the start, meant that I was ahead of the crowd from the start. I decided to pick up the pace. If I saw someone ahead (people join the trail from wherever they have spent the night) I made it my mission to overtake them. It made the time pass more quickly, which is just as well because the route itself is nothing special at this point. The best bits were through woodland, delicious smells of eucalyptus and wild herbs, Not so nice was seeing the evidence of wild fires. And there was quite a bit of time spent walking on a path next to a main road. There was also a bit more uphill than I’d remembered.
A pair of traditionally dressed Galician pipers were playing by the side of the trail about 8k outside Santiago. Most people who have completed a Camino will remember the piper that plays under the archway as you approach the cathedral, well I got there too early for anyone to be playing there, so at least I heard them once during the Camino.
The weather was misty this morning, I thought I was on for yet another arrival in the rain, but the clouds started to clear as I approached Santiago allowing me to see a glimpse of the cathedral as I approached. It was great to get to the Plaza de Obradorio before it got too crowded. I took a couple of photos and made my way to the pilgrim office to register for my compostella. I was the 120th pilgrim to finish today and the first from the Primitivo (not that it is a competition).
Next I dumped my bag at my Albergue for the night (KM0), jumped in a taxi to Decathlon on the outskirts of town, where I was hunting for a charging cable for my Garmin. Apparently they only do them online. I treated myself to a new outfit though which means I can put all my clothes in a washing machine this afternoon get them properly clean!
Back into town and feeling peckish. There was only one thing for it. Kebab, gin and tonic at the Newroz Kebob. Only a 10 second pour on the gin this time - but I suppose it is only lunchtime. A quick stop at the hostel, a shower and brand new clothes felt wonderful, and then I was out again. When I got here this morning Santiago was a sleepy little city, with quiet streets. By mid afternoon those narrow streets are crowded with people. In the old part of the city most of the shops are souvenir shops, the newer part has all the ‘high street’ names. I took refuge at ‘Botafumeiro,’ a bar on the approach to the cathedral, ordered a beer and wrote some postcards while people watching.
The three schoolboys came past, they finished a couple of hours ago, and stopped to say hello. I think that completing a Camino at their age (16/17) is a great achievement. A couple of days ago they asked me if I was a teacher. I wondered what might make them think that. Apparently, about a week ago, I’d wanted to get their attention and I’d said ‘Boys!’ in a way that made them all instantly stops what they were doing, wonder what they’d been caught doing wrong, and turn to face me instantly!
Back at the Albergue, lying on my bed after repacking my backpack (I jettisoned a couple of unworn pairs of socks to make room for new skort, top and underwear) I suddenly heard my name! Paulo, one of the Italians on the Primitivo is here too. He’s catching a train to Madrid at 5.45am tomorrow. I told him not to say goodbye.
This evening I’m rewarding myself with a nice meal because I did a SCARY THING. I didn’t realise quite how scary it was going to be when I booked it. After all I’ve done the Sydney Bridge Climb and Up at the O2. The roof top tour of Santiago Cathedral is terrifying and wonderful. I don’t think my terror levels were helped by the fact that our tour guide only spoke in Spanish, she obviously gave out some safety instructions, but she spoke so quickly that I hadn’t got a chance of understanding her. The views were stunning. It was worth scaring myself. I just wish I’d understood more!
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