Not only was last night a fiesta in Ferrol it was also the Rally de Ferrol. This started in the next street to my hotel, secondary double glazing was not up to the challenge so I took advantage of the hotel WiFi to leave Radio4 playing for a couple of hours while I feel asleep.
I woke before my alarm went off. Repacked my bag and set off. I am so glad I didn’t need to retrace my steps to the very start. I knew that I would have to spend some time walking out of the town but, and I blame a chronic lack of research, I didn’t realise that it would be 18,5km until I saw anything resembling trail! And even then it was a path about 5m away from a dual carriageway!
What research I had done (joined a Facebook group, read a few posts) told me that I was in for ‘hills, hills and then some more hills’ so I was pleasantly surprised by how gentle the hills were. I may have cursed the crappy navigation skills of the early English pilgrims, who could have saved me a 17k walk through residential and industrial estates if they had just landed their boat on the other side of the river.
I didn’t see any other pilgrims until at least 16kn. I suspect they had started from Neda as this is suggested by the guide book as a useful way to break up the one long stage on this Camino. No chats were had today. It feels very odd to know that I won’t see the Primitivo gang. I did get an update from Maura and the two Carols with a picture of them in front of the Cathedral in Santiago.
Pontedeume is a pretty town. I’m sitting outside a bar in the town square with a cold beer people watching. There is some sort of book/library festival going on, but what I am struck by, again and again on this trip, is the fact that Spanish people seem to have a better work-life balance than we do.
Oh! My accommodation tonight deserves a mention. I couldn’t reserve a bed at any of the Albergues, so have needed up in a room above a restaurant. The room is tiny, but has its own bathroom and cost me €20 - that’s only about €4 more than a bunk bed in an Albergue dorm.
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