Camino Inglés day 2: Pontedeume to Betanzos

 Before I forget, again, there is a question that has been bugging me.  I see lots of dogs here who are on chains in the garden.  Every dog I know in the UK has an uncanny ability to get itself entangled in its lead, yet the dogs here seem to be able to cope with being chained up.  How?

Last night I could swear I could hear people talking every time I woke up.  The reason for this became clear when I left my accommodation at 6am.  The square outside was full of people, still wide awake, still drinking and their night out! No wonder the siesta is important here.  

Today’s walk was OK.  Mainly on tarmac roads winding along country lanes and through small villages.  The areas I am walking through are far more populated than on the Frances or Primitivo, I’m just going to have to get used that.  More houses doesn’t seem to mean more open coffee shops. The curse of walking on a Sunday is that you have no idea if the bar or cafe mentioned in the guide/on the app will be open.  Today it was 11km before I found a place open for coffee in a village that wasn’t even mentioned on the app.  They served one of the best croissants I have ever eaten and had toilets that were so sparklingly clean that I felt I was the first person ever to use them. 

I saw four other pilgrims while walking today, this route is very quiet from that point of view.  On arriving at my Albergue I snagged a bottom bunk and waited for the shower.  There are eight bunks and one shower and toilet between us. Not ideal, but it is only for one night.  I found the local supermarket and picked up something to eat- just in case nowhere serves dinner before 9pm (the time advertised in two places I have seen so far) - before going out to look for lunch. 

Betanzos is a walled town on the bank of the Mandeo river,  but the cafes and shops are all perched precariously on the steep hill.  As it is Sunday most shops are closed.  I always forget that it is Sunday!  The centre feels prosperous, but there are still semi derelict and abandoned buildings in the ‘high street.’ 

Siesta beckons now…