Camino Day 29: Pontecampana to Calle

 How can it be day 29 already?  Surely I only got here last week, but then again I sometimes find it hard to imagine a life which involved deciding what to wear in the morning and what to do! 

Last night’s communal dinner started with an excellent soup and went downhill after that!  I sat with a young girl from Romania and three generations of a family from Australia.  The Australians recounted that they had been ‘traumatised’ by a communal meal where they had been asked to share the reason they were on the Camino and where, shock horror, the entire meal had been vegetarian. It took me a while to realise that they were talking about Casa Susi, where Louise, Zora and I had stayed and had an excellent meal.  ‘Sharing’ just enough with no pressure to do anything that made us feel uncomfortable! 

As I set out this morning I was accompanied by a black dog.  An actual black dog, not a metaphorical one.  I’d seen several posters about not allowing dogs to follow you when on the trail = but still can’t work out how to stop a persistent dog from doing this.  This particular dog followed me for nearly 10k = only leaving me when I went into a coffee shop for breakfast.  I hope it got home, but surely the onus is on the owner to make sure dogs are secure?  

As usual, the first part of my walk (to breakfast) was in the dark.  After breakfast in Mellide the sky was lighter although there was a fog that persisted until just before noon.  I tend to listen to an audio book in the dark, the story I am listening to is quite compelling and I am trying to make sure it lasts so I invented a little game.  If I can see people ahead of me I turn off the audio book and can’t listen to it again until I have passed them or decided that they are moving so fast that I can’t catch them.  This means that I can have little chats with people as I pass them.  

In Arzua I bumped into Laura who I have seen several times over the last few weeks.  I gave her Compeed in an Albergue in San Juan de Ortega.  It was good to see her and catch up on Camino news.  We walked together for a few kilometres, which was pleasant, before she and her friend stopped for a drink. 

In Arzua several Caminos merge.  The Camino de Norte and the Primitivo join the Camino Frances (the one I’m on).  Suddenly there seemed to be people everywhere!  I was quite glad of the fog because I couldn’t see how many people I was sharing the trail with. I was considering a late start tomorrow - given that it is the last day of the Camino de Santiago - but I think I will stick with my early start so that I get some time alone.  I suspect that Santiago will be busy, and I will have lots to do - visiting the Pilgrim Office to get my Compostella as well as a new credential for the ‘Ultreia’ section of this mad adventure!

Camino Day 28: Portomarin to Pontecampana

 The albergue I stayed in last night has to be the worst I have stayed in during this trip.  Most of the time I have been impressed with how clean everything is, this one was a wee bit grubby.  The woman who checked us in was not terribly friendly and was VERY reluctant to allow anyone to have a bottom bunk!  I went into town to get supper as there was no community meal on offer, returning at around 8pm ready to settle down for the night.  

Some of my fellow occupants had other ideas.  Two Spanish girls in beds near me carried on a loud conversation, interspersed with ‘phone calls, with the other caller on speaker so we could all hear (if not understand in my case) and watching video clips on ‘phones - again without using earphones.  This carried on until about 8.30pm, when they went out to get dinner, and resumed at 10pm when they returned.  

In the morning I was ready to leave just after 5am, but could not get the door unlocked.  The key was in the lock to the door, but it wouldn’t turn fully in either direction and could not be removed.  I looked around for the fire exit, deciding that I would use that instead.  There was no fire exit.  This locked door was the only way out.  I fiddled with the key some more, trying to ease it out of the lock.  I tried jiggling the handle to see it that helped - but it didn’t.  In the end I kicked the door in frustration and heard a click - now the key turned and the lock opened!  I could get out!  This seems like a disaster waiting to happen - a locked door that is that temperamental on a door that opens inwards would turn the albergue into a death trap if there was a fire.  

Still, I was on my way!  It was a short walk out of Portomarin and back into countryside.  Most of today’s route was along pretty woodland trails.  There is a definite autumnal feel now, from the misty mornings to the leaves just starting to turn.  It occurred to me that I left home in summer and will return in the autumn.  First breakfast happened in Gonzar - but was so disappointing that even my iPhone refused to record the photo!  Sliced white bread that had just about been scared by the grill but not properly toasted.  The coffee was OK.  I picked up my bag and walked on, chatting with various people as I made my way.   I stopped a little later at a cafe attached to an albergue - sadly the food on offer didn’t look too appealing (pre packed croissants and pain au chocolat) so I had a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice instead before heading off.  

I plodded merrily on, through tiny picturesque villages, dodging cows being hearded down the main road through towns and past numerous granary stores until suddenly I was at Pontecampana and my albergue was in sight!  Of course I arrived an hour before it opened - but I was happy to sit in the courtyard enjoying the gentle sunshine while I waited for 1pm (probably closer to 1.15pm by the time the door opened) and check in time!  

It is most definitely laundry day today.  The albergue in Sarria had nowhere outdoors to dry washing and it was raining yesterday afternoon, so I spent much of today keeping my fingers crossed for dry weather this afternoon.  As I had quite a bit of laundry to do I opted for the luxury of paying to use a washing machine.  I asked the lady who checked in at the same time as me if she wanted to put her stuff in with mine - it feels wrong to run a washing machine with so few clothes - so now our clothes are all drying in the sunshine.  

This albergue feels much better than the last two I have stayed in.  Pontecampana is one of those teeny tiny places that mean you don’t feel obliged to spend the afternoon sightseeing - so after I finish my beer I will go for a snooze before dinner! 

Camino day 27: Sarria to Portomarin

 

The alarm went off this morning - and I exited my coffin like sleeping space as quietly as possible!  I love the idea of being able to draw the curtain but, at some point last night it was way too hot in the ‘box’ so I had to open it a little.

I walked out of Sarria with two ladies from ‘up state New York’ who were just starting out and were full of horror stories that they’d heard.  Apparently one woman, walking early in the morning, had passed a naked man lying by the side of the path masturbating.  She was terrified, according to the story, that he would attack her.  I think that he was probably too preoccupied with the task in hand (so to speak) to pay her much attention - if it even happened at all!  Still it was interesting to chat to people just starting out.  They’d set off early to get ahead of the rain - it was slightly drizzly which meant I was wearing a supposedly breathable waterproof.  I felt like I was walking in a crisp packet!

Breakfast didn’t happen until 12km into my walk - which was pushing it in terms of my hangry levels!  I had a pleasant meal, chatting with some Australian ladies who were just about to set off for their day’s walk. Soon after breakfast I passed a marker stating that we only had 100km to go.  That is 20 parkruns!  

The heavy rain held off, but it was misty with poor visibility and some cool cloud inversions.  It was mostly easy walking on trail paths or brief stretches of tarmac mad, with a short sharp descent on a rocky section of path that required nifty foot work to negotiate.  Then there was the terrifyingly high bridge into Portomarin - and just as I was sighing with relief at having survived that there were steps!  Bumping into an :old friend’ (Jay from S.Korea) meant I could pause for a selfie and a catch up!

Portomarin had not been my chosen end point for today, I’d wanted to go further but couldn’t get any accommodation elsewhere.  I arrived before 11am so left my back pack in the albergue and went into town  to grab a coffee.  On my way in I saw Tom = who I’d walked to Burgos with all those days ago!  It was nice to catch up.  Apparently someone had asked him only yesterday if he’d seen me - but he couldn’t remember who!

This albergue is pretty basic, and for the second night in a row there is no community meal available, which is a shame.  They also seem very reluctant to allocate bottom bunks.  I was first here and they tried to give me a top bunk - I pointed to my strapped legs and pleaded until they relented.  I’ve sat and watched the same thing happen to lots of new arrivals.  Portomarin is full apparently.  People without bookings are being turned away.  The dorms today (and yesterday in Sarria) is noisier than previously.  Maybe the dorm rooms were noisy way back when we were all babies on day one and two but, if they were, I don’t remember people laughing and joking across the bunk beds.  More recently they have become almost silent in the afternoons, with people snoozing or quietly sorting their kit.  I have retreated to the relative peace and quiet of a restaurant in town to sit in the garden and eat some lunch while writing this blog.  

Camino Day 26: Fonfria to Sarria

 I overslept this morning!  I thought I’d set an alarm but obviously hadn’t, so woke up at 5.30am and had to get a wiggle on to get out of the door by just after 6am.  I’d been keen to get an early start today because I wanted to do just over 20 miles.  At least I wasn’t further delayed by forgetting walking

The weather was much warmer this morning than on previous days, a cloudy sky and rumours of rain ahead meant that I had my waterproof at the ready, but I got to my breakfast stop in Tricastella without needing it.  I seem to arrive at breakfast just as lots of people who have stayed in that village are having breakfast and getting ready to set off - which makes for a sociable gathering and a bit of chat as we all move on together.  

As I left Tricastella I saw this sign:

I had already decided that I would go on the route via Samos as it follows river paths rather than roads, but seeing the difference in distance clearly laid out nearly made me change my mind.  The route, through tiny villages and alongside the river, did not disappoint.  I spent some time chatting with a group of doctors who had met a medical school 38 years ago, bumped into an American church group I’d seen in Rabanal and Las Herrerias.  It is an amazingly small world on the Camino!

I didn’t spend long in Samos.  I had a quick look at the monastery but didn’t go inside.  I wanted to get to my destination before the threatened rain arrived.  It was a straightforward route, fairly flat, but I was plagued by dogs in almost every small village I walked through.  I feel slightly more confident having walking poles in hand, but still don’t enjoy being followed by big dogs with their owners nowhere to be seen. 

I got to Sarria and immediately wondered why I had thought I should stop here. It isn’t a pretty city.  It is the point at which a lot of people start their Camino.  If you are applying for university in Spain and have walked the 112km from Sarria to Santiago it gives your application a boost.  I’ve noticed the influx of pilgrims and the effect they have on booking accommodation.  I have had to cut short my distance tomorrow as there is no accommodation available in my target town.  So far I have been booking one day in advance, but even booking two days in advance left me no available options. I now have somewhere for tomorrow and Sunday.  I’m not sure how far I want to go on Monday so can’t book ahead just yet.  

The new pilgrims are recognisable because they have bigger bags, cleaner shoes, and paler skin than the rest of us.  They also make more noise in the dorm during the afternoon when lots of us are trying to sleep.

All being well I should get to Santiago on Tuesday.  Part of me thinks I will try to time it so I get there early, get my paperwork sorted and then head off towards Finisterra and stay just beyond Santiago.  

Camino Day 25: Trabadelo to Fonfria

 We had an excellent community meal last night at Casa Susi.  This albergue had been recommended by so many people and really lived up to expectations.  The food was delicious = mostly the produce of the garden attached to the property, the rose wine (as well as the red) slipped down easily.  The hosts joined us for dinner, We shared stories, hopes and dreams as well as good food.  I had seconds!

Despite thinking that I was tired and even though the beds were very comfy, I struggled to fall asleep.  At midnight, having gone to bed at 9.30pm I was still awake.  I must have fallen asleep eventually as I woke up just before 4.45am and decided I may as well get up.  I think I am getting quite good at leaving a dorm room without making a noise although I always worry that the charging plug will make a noise as I pull it out of the wall!  I generally grab all my gear and take it into a corridor to sort everything out.  It was all going so well this morning, I had everything packed away and set off out of the door before 5.15am.  I was just leaving the town of Trabadelo when I realised that I’d left my damned poles behind AGAIN! Poles and boots can’t be taken into the dorm rooms so you have to leave them in a designated place - which is different in each albergue. This means they are not always in what I would consider a logical place.  I called myself some rude names as I trudged back to get them, waiting outside until I could hear someone moving around inside who would be able to unlock the door.

Today’s route took in the infamous ascent to O Cebreiro.  I was keen to set out early so that I would not get stuck on a hill in the heat of the day!  And as the forecast said that it would be 16c at 6am it looked like it could be a hot day.  I decided not to wear my down jacket.  This was a mistake.  The forecast lied!  Once out of the town it was bitterly cold.  By the time I had covered the 10km to Las Herrerías my hands (despite being in gloves) were so cold that I couldn’t turn off my head torch when I went into a cafe for breakfast!

I stopped for quite a long time as I decided I wasn’t going out again until it was light and at least looked warmer out there.  Two cups of strong, black coffee helped to warm me up and the apple cake was delicious.  At last I could put it off no longer and it was time to tackle this mythical beast of a hill.  

It wasn’t that bad.  I think yesterday’s walk was tougher and, had my legs not been tired from that one, today’s would have felt even easier.  I seemed to be passing people all the way up - even though I was pausing to takes lots of photos and admire the views.  The coffees I had earlier in the morning meant that by the time I got to La Laguna de Castilia I was in need of  a wee break!  I was just drinking a lovely fresh orange juice when Louise appeared. We walked and chatted, later joined by Zora, until they stopped at Linares for the evening.  

As we approached O Cebreiro, still waiting for the steep bit, we heard bag pipes playing!   We had another snack/drink stop and I bought some postcards in the souvenir shop.  It was mainly down hill from there to Linares and the time passed quickly as we chatted away. 

After we parted in Linares I had another 10k to go.  It was mostly downhill but with one or two really nasty steep uphill bits thrown in for good measure!  They were far worse than anything else today.  

Fonfria is a tiny village.  The albergue here is comfortable with very friendly staff.  Cows seem to outnumber humans - but I seem to have got used to the smell of cow poo now!  A community meal is on the cards tonight… I must go and find out what time it is happening!