Ultreia et Suseia Day 4: Finistera to Muxia

 I slept badly last night.  I was awake from 2am until at least 4am, no idea why!  I ended up reading my book quietly, and having a bit of a lie in before packing my kit up, hoisting my ruck sack on my back and heading out of the door.  It won’t be the last time I do this, but it will be the last time I do it with a substantial walk ahead of me until I do something like this again!  

I’d felt weary yesterday morning when I set out and, although it was a lovely walk, I found it tough going.  I was concerned that today might feel even harder.  I was surprised to find that I felt great!  I’d walked down into Finistera so obviously the start of today’s walk was uphill - but it was still dark so I couldn’t see how steep and how long the hill was!  By the time it got light I was into my stride and the path had levelled out a little - think undulating rather than hilly!  

For a lot of the time I could hear and/or see the ocean on my left hand side, and I was walking through woodland with very short sections on the edge of roads and few humans in evidence.  For a lot of the time all I could hear was brid song and waves.  

I stopped for breakfast in a little town called Lires.  The cafe had a sign saying that all food was sourced/made within 5km.  I spied pancakes on the menu and ordered some with homemade apple and lemon jam.  Delicious, but being a proper pancake not an American one, not very filling.  I ordered a croissant and was given a whole meal croissant.  I was dubious but it was amazing!

This section of the Camino between Finistera and Muxia has signs pointing in both directions, and pilgrims walking both ways, unlike the Caminos that lead into Santiago where everyone is going in the same direction.  One of the first people I saw coming towards me, about 10km before I reached my destination, was the young man from the Czech Republic who had been in the same dorm as I had been in a couple of nights ago.  

The descent in to Muxia has stunning views of the coast and the beaches.  It is a smaller, less touristy town than Finistera. And, while that means I couldn’t buy an ice cream this afternoon, it does feel much nicer.  As I arrived before my 1pm check in time I didn’t bother trying to leave my stuff at the hotel I’d booked, and decided to go straight up to the headland.  

It was only an extra kilometre each way to get to the Santuario da Virxe da Barca.  This church was built at the site where apparently the Virgin Mary appeared in a stone boat to encourage the apostle James.  There is also a sculpture called ‘A Ferida’ which was erected in tribute to the volunteers who helped to clean up the Prestige oil spill.  And there is a proper lighthouse!  Nowhere to get a beer or an ice cream though - which just goes to prove you can’t have everything!

I spent some time mooching around, going out as far as I dared on the rocks (this is the Costa da Morte!) and throwing the stone I bought from the Isle of Tiree into the Atlantic.  I then headed back down into town to check into my hotel, sort out my Camino certificate and get lunch.  As we are near the sea there is plenty of seafood on offer - I had razor clams as I’d never had them before.  They were amazing!

All three trips I have been on this summer have had a connection to the Atlantic (Gibraltar, Tiree before this).  I couldn’t have been on three more different adventures, but this last one has been exceptional.  It has been a completely selfish indulgence.  The luxury of time to spend on oneself is so rare and so precious.  I have thoroughly enjoyed not having to consider anyone else’s opinion.  I am so grateful to my family for putting up with me being away for so long (please don’t change the locks!) and to all the wonderful people I have met along the way.  I’ve had lots of time to think, plenty of time on my own, but always someone around when I’ve wanted company.  I don’t know what I expected from the Camino - mainly because I refused to do much research.  I was always sure that, barring injury, I would complete it - because I am stubborn.  I through I would find walking quite tedious and I’d be desperate for distraction.  It was never boring!  Occasionally (walking into Burgos) it was painful, it was miserable walking for hours and hours in the pouring rain (but the camaraderie in the Albergues afterwards made up for that and for having to put wet shoes back on the next day), but most of the time it was AMAZING.  

I’ve spent most of the last month with the biggest grin on my face, often laughing out loud at the sheer joy of being here doing this silly journey!  I’ve walked from France, over the Pyrenees and all the way across Spain to the Atlantic Coast.  I was never a walker - I’d occasionally go for a walk after Sunday lunch.  I suppose now I have to admit that walking is OK!  

I don’t think this will by my last Camino - at least I hope it won’t be!  I know I am repeating myself here but, while the things I have seen have been spectacular, it is the people I have met along the way who have made my Camino so special. Thank you all!

Ultreia et Suseia Day 3: Logoso to Finistera

 We both slept late this morning.  Partly in the hope that our clothes and shoe might dry before we left (they didn’t) and partly because we could!  Beth left a few minutes before I planned to (I was busy re tapping my legs), as I picked up my rucksack the heavens opened.  This was not what we wanted - the forecast had said it wouldn’t rain! I decided to wait to see if the shower would pass - and within 10 minutes it did.

Despite the extra sleep, I felt weary today.  Maybe putting on wet kit two days running is the reason, but I know I have been walking quite long distances over the last few days, I’ve not had any shorter days.  Still tomorrow is my last day walking.  I’ve got an Albergue booked for tomorrow evening, so I don’t need to worry about how long I take, then on Sunday it will be a bus ride back to Santiago. 

Soon after the start of today’s walk the path splits - as I looked at the sign I wondered why I had chosen Finistera rather than Muxia to go to first!  

Today it was lovely to walk in the sunshine.  I could actually see the sunrise for the first time in a while and the warmth was very welcome.  It was 16km to breakfast, which was quite a big undertaking, and there was only toast on offer.  The host was very friendly though, and offered me extra toast. I couldn’t hold out for the next cafe - just in case it was several kilometres further down the trail.

The Camino here is beautiful, especially when you get the first glimpses of the sea! I love the sound and smell of the sea, not so mad on sand and beaches though.  There are far fewer people walking compared to the Camino Frances - especially compared to the bedlam of the Camino after Sarria.  There is also the novelty of seeing pilgrims walking in the opposite direction from time to time.  

I arrived in Finistera at about 1.30pm.  It seems that, what ever distance I walk and whatever time I leave, I always arrive between 12.30 and 1.30pm!  But arriving in the town of Finistera wasn’t the end of my walk.  I needed to get to Faro de Finistera, 3.5km beyond the town.  I checked into my accommodation first, leaving my back pack and poles there.  It felt odd to walk without them - and left my hands free to eat an ice cream.

The walk up to the lighthouse was beautiful - views of forest and sea.  I was looking for a traditional lighthouse in the distance - but the Faro lighthouse is not a tall white building (even if the fridge magnets and road signs depict it as such).  I wandered around at the ‘end of the world,; sat on the rocks looking at the view and, of course, ordered a beer before walking back into the town to meet Beth for supper.

As we were at the sea side fish and chips were the order of the day, along with a weapons grade G&T before returning to the ice cream shop to pudding! 

Back in my accommodation, I think that most of my clothing is now dry = or will be by the morning.  Just one more day of walking!  Tomorrow will be along the coast to Muxia.  I am too chicken to look at the weather forecast!

Ultreia et Suseia Day 2: A Pena to Logoso

 There is nothing enjoy more than waking up and putting on every so slightly damp clothes from the day before.  A personal highlight is wet shoes.  Very little fills my heart with more joy and excitement.  I comforted myself with the knowledge that, even if I had started the day with dry clothes everything would soon be wet as it was still raining.  At least the forecast was better for today.  Admittedly, given we’d had 15cm of rain yesterday, that wouldn’t be hard.  

As sunrise is now at about 8.30am, and because I had a confirmed bed for the night, I decided to have a lie in.  I still woke up at 4.45am - but snoozed and read a book for a while, eventually leaving, in the rain, just before 7am. 

Rainhood up, head torch on -  a limited field of vision and the incessant sound of rain on waterproof leads to a feeling of isolation.  I kept telling myself that it couldn’t be as bad  as yesterday.  And, at least for a while, it wasn’t too awful.  

And then it started to rain in earnest.  I stopped for breakfast in the hope that the rain would pass over.  It didn’t.  I am sure I passed lots of stunning scenery, but I really didn’t care.  I just kept plodding along, questioning the life choices that had brought me to this point and particularly my decision not to buy a big, all encompassing, rain coat that would cover both me and my ruck sack.  

The rain was relentless, there were gusts of wind that attempted to knock me off my feet and the drainage ditches were filling up nicely.  And then it really began to pour down.  I have rarely seen rain like it, complete with  lightening (I assume there must have been thunder too but I couldn’t hear that above the noise of the rain on my hood).

At one point the branch of a fig tree fell, narrowly avoiding causing me serious harm.  I put my hand out to protect my face - the result being that the ring I have just had repaired snapped at the shoulder.  The incident left me a wee bit shaken. I had just passed a cafe that I had considered sheltering in for second breakfast but I knew that my kit was so wet that, if I took off my waterproof 

 I was nearly at the top of a hill at this point and spied a group of pilgrims sheltering in a bus shelter.  I navigated my way across the torrent of water in the gutter and huddled with them.

As the rain eased off a little I set off again, down the hill and then through a knee deep, fast flowing river that had formed across the road.  Gortex shoes can only cope with so much…I was glad of my poles here so that I could at least gauge how deep the water was.  

About 23km in the Sun tried to shine.  Although I was glad to see it, and for the rain to have stopped, it was too little too late! There were a couple more rain showers, interspersed with sunshine.  Enough rain to stop ensure that there was no chance of anything drying out, enough sunshine, just, to prevent hypothermia.  

I’d booked a twin room with Beth at the Albergue.  I thought I’d done well to arrive just after 1pm for a 1pm check in - but had forgotten about Spanish timings so had to wait a while.  

I can quite categorically state that I have had enough rain now thank you very much.

Ulteria et Suseia Day 1: Santiago to A Pena

I had a lie in this morning until 5am!  Yesterday had felt like an incredibly busy day, I felt compelled to see the sites in Santiago and then remembered, as I sat down to dinner, that I had 2 days next week to explore all that the city had to offer.  I didn’t go to the Pilgrim Mass in the cathedral, but have decided that I will do so before I go home.  There are four a day to chose from and, as I am staying in Albergues, I need to be out and about all day - so an hour indoors (with somewhere to sit) might be quite welcome!  Especially if it is raining!

I’ve had enough rain today to last for at least the rest of the year, and probably well into next year too!  I left at about 5.30am in a light drizzle, which wasn’t ideal because it limited my visibility but I had high hopes that it would clear up later.  Spoiler alert: it didn’t clear up at all!  After yesterday’s crowded trails it was nice to have some peace and quiet this morning.  The route was tricky to find at the start, but once out of the city and on the more rural paths it became much clearer.  Bridges and stepping stones were used to cross several rivers.  There was a diversion due to road works that took started off being clearly signposted and then just left me stranded at a cross roads!  Thank goodness for the Buen Camino app that allowed me to navigate my way back and walk through the road works.  

Breakfast, at a cafe with excellent murals and a cat that looked like Tiggs (and was just as grumpy) was a welcome respite from the rain, and allowed me to warm up while the sky lightened.  Another good croissant!  

At Ponte Maceira I crossed another excellent bridge and I reflected that this part of Spain seems much more prosperous than the villages and towns we walked through prior to Santiago.  I’m sure the scenery was lovely, but visibility was limited by the cloud and the fact that my glasses were either covered in rain or fogged up!

I contemplated a second breakfast in Negreira, but the idea of sitting in soggy clothes didn’t appeal.  Had I not booked a bed in A Peña I am 90% certain I would have looked for a room in Negreira.  The rain and wind had picked up making decisions less than ideal. Still, it was only 8.5km to A Peña.  Most of the day had felt as though it was uphill, and this continued to be the theme for the last section, The rain increased, I was walking up hill in a path that now resembled a river.  It was not fun.  My shoes may be waterproof, but my socks were acting as wicks taking the water from my legs into my shoes.  I could feel the water sloshing around inside my shoes!  I couldn’t see much, could only hear the rain on my hood and I just wanted to stop - but there was no shelter!  

Arriving at the Albergue, for once at the correct time not an hour early, I spotted Beth (from North Dakota) who I’d met at various places long the Camino (we’d been at several Albergues at the same time).  She’d been waiting for nearly an hour for the place to open and was really cold.  We checked in, had showers and pooled our washing and splashed out for a dryer as well (nothing is drying outside today) before retiring to the nearest cafe for food.  Bacon, egg and chips for two plus a beer for me.  Beth had the largest gin I have ever seen!  Must have been a 15 second pour!  We ate our food and laughed at the ridiculousness of how horrible today had been while watching other walkers trudging in.  We discussed tomorrow’s plans - found out we were both aiming for the same place so booked a private twin room rather than bunks in a dorm.  The cost is about the same - but but we get our own bathroom.  It also means we don’t have to leave so early tomorrow as we don’t need to arrive early to guarantee a bottom bunk!

There is a very strong ‘blitz spirit’ in the Albergue this afternoon as we all try to get everything dry. The owner has lit the log burner - one of my room mates from the Czech Republic is drying his passport and his euros by the stove!  And we are planning how to get to the cafe for the community dinner without getting totally drenched again!  

Camino life continues…

Camino Day 30: Calle to Santiago de Compostella

I woke up to the sound of rain.  Not a light, autumn drizzle, but a proper downpour.  I had no choice but to get up and go though.  Skin is waterproof and I am not made of sugar.  Once you start walking in the rain it is OK, so long as you position your head torch so that you aren’t looking at silver streaks constantly.  Luckily I had already solved this problem as wearing a head torch on my head with glasses was really annoying, some of the light reflected in the lenses and the frames.  A much better solution was to attach my head torch to the shoulder strap of my rucksack.  

I only had 31km to walk today.  Since when was that a sensible thing to say?  I have discovered that 30 to 32km is a distance that seems to feel comfortable.  I get to my destination feeling that I could go on for a few more kilometres if I had to, but that it is good to stop.  Much less than this distance and I feel that I haven’t really tried, much further and I spend the last few kilometres just hanging on and waiting for it all to be over. 

As normal I had the trail to myself for the first 10(ish)km.  I stopped for breakfast in O Pedrouzo - an amazingly good croissant, coffee and juice for what I assumed would be first breakfast.  As it started to get light the fog became apparent. Remarkably similar to the weather conditions I had on day one when visibility as very limited.  While I’d have loved to see some views it seemed fitting.  After O Pedrouzo I walked for several kilometres with Rod and Jeremy, brothers who were born in Zimbabwe.  One now lives in South Africa and the other in Norwich.  They have completed many Caminos and no doubt will complete more in the future.  Another parallel to day one when I walked with Clayton who lived in Zimbabwe until he was 15 and then moved to Australia.  

The trails were very busy.  Lots of different Caminos merge as they approach Santiago and there also appeared to be school parties walking sections of the route.  As we walked up one short, steep uphill I realised that my Spanish must be improving as I heard them say (of Rod, Jeremy and me) ‘Come on, we can’t let these grannies beat us!’  

For once we had a downhill finish as we came into Santiago.  I am assured that there are excellent glimpses of the cathedral to be seen - but not today!  I did happen to fall into a yarn shop - but constrained myself to some stitch markers made of jet - which is common in Galicia.  Anything I buy has to be really lightweight and easy to carry! 

Soon I was walking past a bagpiper - they are a big thing in this part of Spain, and although they don’t sound quote the same as Scottish bagpipes, and the piper wasn’t wearing a kilt, they are still an evocative sound.  After that it was straight out into the square in front of the cathedral.  I arrived at 12noon and it was HEAVING with people.  I grabbed a quick selfie and then went to find out where my albergue was (answer, hugely conveniently located near the cathedral, pilgrim office and post office) but check in was not until 1.30pm!  

I used the time to go to the pilgrim office to pick up my Compostella and my certificate of distance.  They are in a cardboard tube to keep them safe.  I had expected to wait for AGES, but the process was quick and smooth.  

To be absolutely honest, as a ‘finish’ it was slightly anticlimactic!  I think that Finistera/Muxia, for me, will be a far more satisfying finale.  That will signify walking across a whole country, from the mountains to the ocean.  

Having skipped second breakfast, as I was so close to the end, I went for lunch before showering (and laundry will not happen today as it is still raining).  Lunch was so huge that I left half of it!  Thus fortified I made my way to the cathedral.  It gives Versailles a run for its money in terms of bling!  It had none of the beauty of Leon nor the charm of Astorga and seemed to be all about display.  The rain had driven all the tourists inside so it was also very crowded.  

Back at the Albergue I showered and sorted out my kit.  I need to go out to get supplies - I’m all out of deodorant and could do with some new KT tape (my legs feel fine but I am not risking taking the tape off just yet).  

I am thrilled to have completed this first stage of my adventure.  The next stage is much shorter, and time bound by a flight that is being booked as I type.  My plans to take the train home via Madrid and Paris have fallen foul of a level of complexity and expense that I am not willing to invest.