I overslept this morning! I thought I’d set an alarm but obviously hadn’t, so woke up at 5.30am and had to get a wiggle on to get out of the door by just after 6am. I’d been keen to get an early start today because I wanted to do just over 20 miles. At least I wasn’t further delayed by forgetting walking
The weather was much warmer this morning than on previous days, a cloudy sky and rumours of rain ahead meant that I had my waterproof at the ready, but I got to my breakfast stop in Tricastella without needing it. I seem to arrive at breakfast just as lots of people who have stayed in that village are having breakfast and getting ready to set off - which makes for a sociable gathering and a bit of chat as we all move on together.
As I left Tricastella I saw this sign:
I had already decided that I would go on the route via Samos as it follows river paths rather than roads, but seeing the difference in distance clearly laid out nearly made me change my mind. The route, through tiny villages and alongside the river, did not disappoint. I spent some time chatting with a group of doctors who had met a medical school 38 years ago, bumped into an American church group I’d seen in Rabanal and Las Herrerias. It is an amazingly small world on the Camino!
I didn’t spend long in Samos. I had a quick look at the monastery but didn’t go inside. I wanted to get to my destination before the threatened rain arrived. It was a straightforward route, fairly flat, but I was plagued by dogs in almost every small village I walked through. I feel slightly more confident having walking poles in hand, but still don’t enjoy being followed by big dogs with their owners nowhere to be seen.
I got to Sarria and immediately wondered why I had thought I should stop here. It isn’t a pretty city. It is the point at which a lot of people start their Camino. If you are applying for university in Spain and have walked the 112km from Sarria to Santiago it gives your application a boost. I’ve noticed the influx of pilgrims and the effect they have on booking accommodation. I have had to cut short my distance tomorrow as there is no accommodation available in my target town. So far I have been booking one day in advance, but even booking two days in advance left me no available options. I now have somewhere for tomorrow and Sunday. I’m not sure how far I want to go on Monday so can’t book ahead just yet.
The new pilgrims are recognisable because they have bigger bags, cleaner shoes, and paler skin than the rest of us. They also make more noise in the dorm during the afternoon when lots of us are trying to sleep.
All being well I should get to Santiago on Tuesday. Part of me thinks I will try to time it so I get there early, get my paperwork sorted and then head off towards Finisterra and stay just beyond Santiago.
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