How can it be day 18 already? With the travel before the Camino I have been away from home for nearly three weeks. Time is elastic, at times it feels as though I have only just left home, at others I feel as if I have been walking for months.
Last night’s dinner was enjoyable, spent in good company, but it was late. I didn’t get to bed until 9.30pm! And, on a full stomach, I didn’t sleep well. At least I didn’t have to worry that my wakefulness was disturbing others as I had a private room. When I finally gave up the battle with sleep I got up, sorted my bags and set off into the darkness. Today’s route was mainly along the side of a main road, the occasional lorry thundering past enlivened the walk but there were very few photo opportunities - but there was a lot of dust!
I fell into step with Louise and Z for a short while before our paces diverged. I was hungry and in need of a coffee and knew that Religios at 12km was going to be the first possible breakfast stop. I strided into the village, passing an Albergue because I could see a sign saying ‘Bar - Restaurant’ ahead. It was closed. I walked on, expecting to see another cafe - but they were all closed (8.30am-ish). I turned around and walked back, up hill to the Albergue, thinking that I must message Louise to tell her not to walk past. As it was all three of us arrived at about the same time and had an excellent breakfast before setting off again.
In Manislla de las Mulas, while trying to locate the correct route, I bumped into Martin who I have seen several times since we had dinner together in Belorado. He is obviously not an early morning walker as I seem to bump into him mid to late morning when he is just starting out and I am approaching the end of my walk. I also saw some really pretty crocheted street bunting in this town. One day I will get the hang of crochet - it still feels like I am just stabbing yarn and making a mess.
The approach to Arcahueja was a rare (for the last few days) steep hill. I’d had to book a hotel in this town as the only Albergue is ‘temporarily closed’ and I didn’t want to walk an extra 8km today to Leon today (would have made it a 38km day). The only hotel was a little off the Camino and involved going down a hill as steep as the one I’d just trudged up! As I walked down the hill I saw a figure at the junction waving at me. It was Terri. She, Scott and Molly had been sitting in a cafe having a sandwich before completing their day by going on to Leon. Of course I stopped for a coffee and a catch up before completing the final 200m to my hotel.
Louise and Z arrived shortly after I did, I heard them chatting as I was hanging out my washing on the balcony, so we enjoyed a beer and a snack to keep us going until dinner tonight. Two beers and two slices of tortilla for 4euros!
I thought today might be slower as I had loaded my rucksack with my new streamlined kit. Tomorrow I need to find the post office in Leon to send the extra kit to Santiago. My pace was actually a wee bit faster. I think I was desperate to get my walking shoes off! My walking boots have a lovely memory foam insole - loads of cushioning. My walking shoes don’t have the same level of cushioning. On soft, smooth ground or smooth tarmac they are fine, but after about 14 miles on rough, hard gravel which has no give in it my feet do a good impression of the Princess and the Pea! Every large pebble needs to be circumnavigated. I am regretting not snapping up the pair of Meidl that I saw when I was in Scotland. Not only did they have a lovely memory foam insole, they were a beautiful purple!
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