Last night, after supper I had an EARLY night. I was tucked up in bed by 8pm. Despite an interesting conversation with Laurent, from Calvados, who told me that listening to my accent was like drinking a fine wine. I wasn\t feeling great. I’d taken something of a battering in the heat and the rough, unstable surface meant that my feet felt as though they were on fire. I had a little chat with myself. I’d always planned to book the occasional night in a hotel and I decided that the time had come, so I jumped on line and booked a cheap hotel in Estella. While I was doing this Judy, from Seattle with whom I had shared a washing machine said ‘If you know where you are staying why don’t you send some of you belongings on?’ Good question! Why didn’t I? I’d got my luggage down to 8kg for the 5 week period, but with water and any snacks that came up to at least 9kg - which is over 16% of my weight. I grabbed my largest dry sack and stuffed as much as I could live without for a day in there, filled in the form in the envelope, shoved 6euros in there too and went to bed.
I’ve probably only cut the weight by 30% but it has made such a difference! I was out of the Albergue door at 5.15am with a spring in my step - albeit a timid spring - I stubbed my toe walking around Biarritz and it is a wee bit (excruciatingly) painful - but only when I take the first pace. It hurts all the time, but as long as I don’t stop and start then I can deal with it!
The route from Uterga to Puente La Reine was so gentle - nice even paths, no tricky ascents and descents - that I found myself questioning why I had stopped at Uterga. I had to give myself another good talking to and remind myself that I had been in a ‘right state’ when I stopped yesterday afternoon! I stopped in Puente La Reine for coffee and a croissant as I’d left before the Albergue served breakfast. A nice place to sit and watch the town start to come to life. I love walking in the dark, watching the sun rise, hearing people start to get up and go about their day. If feels like a privilege.
I walked on, making good time, enjoying myself! I chatted with other people for short periods of time, before reverting back to the pace I felt comfortable with and parting company, The scenery was stunning. I felt as though I was walking through and impressionist painting. I understand why Van Gogh’s skies were so heavily painted now - because the sky can be heavy, even before it clouded over and we were treated to a thunderstorm and torrential downpour! I gave thanks for Gortex shoes and waterproofs (much as I hate walking along sounding like an overgrown crisp packet) and ploughed on through the puddles and the paths that had transformed into fast moving streams. I stopped briefly for freshly squeezed orange juice in Cirauqui (a town that looks like it has just popped out of a painting titled ‘small Spanish hillside town’) A lot of the pilgrims there were discussing getting a bus for this stage as it was ‘so wet!’ I was already wet - and sitting on a bus doesn’t really seem in the spirit of this adventure.
I arrived in Estella at about noon, which gave me time for a shower (real towels, my own bathroom) before heading out to look around this beautiful town. Most places were closed for siesta - but I got a beer and pinchos. I’ll wander out later to see if the interesting looking museum is, in fact, interesting and to grab some food. Odd not to be staying with other people on the Camino. As I left the hotel the Aussie PhD student was walking up the road to see if he could get a room (he did a similar day to me yesterday and obviously had the same idea about a bit of luxury) but although we discussed maybe grabbing some food later I don’t know if he got a room here, and I’m not 100% sure what his name is!
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