I’ve decided to be a bit kinder to myself. After talking to other pilgrims who actually did a bit of research it seem that the Primitivo is one of the tougher routes. So while I am not quite where I wish I was, I am by no means ‘unfit!’ Looking back at my Strava for the Camino Frances reveals a much easier walk. There were tough days but there were many days of gentle easy walking. The challenge of that Camino was the length of time it would take to complete. The challenge on the Primitivo is hills!
My Albergue last night was lovely. Gustavo was helpful - when he spotted me in town looking for somewhere that served an unfashionably early dinner (7pm) he told me where I would find somewhere and come into the restaurant with me to explain what I wanted. The dorm room had windows that opened and a fan that was losing the battle against the hot air. I have spent the last two days looking for one of those hand held, usb charged fans that are everywhere when you don’t need them. Last night I fantasised about cool air blowing on my face as sleep eluded me.
I was up early again as I knew today was going to be a hot one. It was surprisingly cool as I left at 6.15am - only about 22c but much less humid than on the last two days. I knew that I had a steady climb for the first 6k, and one benefit of walking in the dark is that you can’t see quite how far the hill goes on for. It is also harder to see the rocks. But tricky conditions underfoot mean that you have to slow down - so that’s a silver lining!
It was a day of firsts, first visible sunrise, first time I’d needed my sunglasses, first cafe actually open and first random chats with fellow pilgrims. It was good to walk and talk about nothing in particular. Oh, and first wild wee - not that you really needed to know that!
I was amazed at how much better I felt after a coffee and a slice of tortilla. Before breakfast it was okay, I was getting it done, but I was constantly being passed. After breakfast I felt as though I had remembered what this was all about. I wasn’t walking just because I had to, I was walking because I could, because I had chosen to walk. I spent a lot of time thinking about no longer being a teacher. I am still struggling with that one. I love teaching, but the education system in the UK is broken and had I carried on it would have broken me. There are many excellent and talented teacher in our schools, but it is a job to that takes everything you have and still demands just a little bit more. I have no idea what comes next, career wise, I can’t spend my whole life walking!
Today was a short day, just 20k. I’m in the albergue in the basement of a hotel. That sounds grim but it is actually quite luxurious. When I checked in, I did consider getting a ‘proper room’ but at €125 it was over five times the price and the lady on reception told me I had a bottom bunk. Had she said ‘top bunk’ I may well have splurged the cash for real sheets and proper towels! I’ve done my washing and am now hoping everything is dry by the morning (indoor drying racks)..
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