Day 9: O Cadavo to Lugo

 It seems that the ping of a microwave is impossible to sleep through!  My dorm was next to the kitchen in last night’s albergue so when people started using the kitchen just after 5am I knew I might as well get up.  I’d looked at all the Camino apps and was reassured that there would be places to stop for breakfast en route, in fact the apps had all stressed that I should stack up with supplies at Castroverde  as it would be the last chance on this stage. Castroverde was closed.  There were lots of interesting looking bars and cafes, but the town was deserted.  

I had no option but to press on, fantasising about a strong, black coffee.  The route today had far less elevation gain which made for a faster pace. And most of the paths were smooth meaning I could get into a rhythm and look around while I was walking without worrying too much about falling over.  The air seemed clearer too, we’d had a short shower of rain at about 6am - maybe that had something to do with it.  

I chatted in broken Spanish, Italian and French as we all played leap frog along the trail.  Turns out we all wanted a coffee.  I’d decided that the next bench, seat or picnic table I saw was going to be the place I stopped for a break, but I just didn’t see anything for ages.  Eventually, as I was leaving Gondar, with only about 13km still to go I heard 80’s music playing and saw a ‘pilgrim oasis’ to my right.

Here a man was busy slicing up melons and nectarines and pouring cups of coffee for passing pilgrims.  There weee seats and shade,  I’d not realised such treats were on offer. I’d just stoped because of the seating, but as I hadn’t eaten the fruit was very welcome.

Lugo is a bustling city, even on a Sunday afternoon.  The bars are restaurants are heaving.  It is quite a shock to the system after a week of sleepy little towns! Lugo has an impressive Roman wall - its perimeter is 2km (so less than that of Chester) but it looks much more complete.  I’d normally have a wall around city walls, but I don’t feel the need to add a viaduct that dates back to the Romans too.  

I’m not sure how much sightseeing I’ll do. I’m ready for a  siesta after I get something to eat!