Despite today being a short stage, a decision made necessary by the lack of accommodation in the town I wanted to walk to, it contained significant elevation gain, that coupled with the unseasonably scorchio weather meant that when a fellow pilgrim suggested slack packing I didn’t take long to decide it was a good idea. And, though today’s stage was only 17.5km, there was no where on the trail to buy food or drinks and there were no water fountains, so all water and food had to be carried. I took 3 litres of water just to be on the safe side and wish I’d drunk more of it early on so that I didn’t have to carry it! I’ve now arrived at tonight’s albergue before the delivery service. Always an anxious time but I am taking comfort from the fact that no bags have arrived, a far better situation than a whole load of bags being here and mine not being one of them! As I can’t get a shower (and boy do I need one) and change my clothes I may as well blog while drinking a beer!
Last night I went out for dinner with the lady I met at Gatwick airport, she’d had a trying day which included a traumatic encounter with a bramble while having a wild wee! We’d already had ‘pre dinner drinks’ with Sven from Sweden and Jim from Dublin, he’s in his 71st year and undertaking his 15th annual Camino, he looks about 55 at most! He says that this route is the toughest he has done. After an ‘ensalada mixta’ and a glass of wine each we toddled back to our albergue in the hope of a good night’s rest.
I spent much of the night wondering of it was seemly for a woman of my age to be sleeping below a Spanish university student called Rapha! He had attended an international school, following the English curriculum and he had certainly learnt how to swear like a Brit! As he neither snore nor farted (that I was aware of) he was an ideal bunk companion.
I set off slightly later today. I’d been told that a cafe in town opened at 6am so decided to get my coffee fix in. It eventually opened at 6.20 and after a strong, black coffee I was on my way.
The first 8.5km were up hill. After a long old walk, with a ‘breakfast’ stop (an orange) part way I found myself at the top! 1110m and a stunning view. Rapha and his uni buddies were there too so we sat and enjoyed the view while enjoying a second breakfast (in my case this was a flapjack purchase at Tebay services on my way back from Tiree last Wednesday). We’d got to the top by about 9am. This meant that we had done the most arduous bit of the day in the ‘cool’ of the morning! But there was still plenty of work to do! Uphills that felt more like scrambling. Downhills that induced vertigo. A lot of time was spent looking at my feet. I had to remind myself to look at the beauty all around me but not for too long as there was always a risk of tripping. There’s a metaphor in there somewhere!
Booking accommodation is trickier than I’d expected. Last time I was always fine booking a day in advance, but here I am having to think.further ahead. Jim, who I met last night, has his hotel room for the next three nights because he couldn’t book anywhere in the towns he wanted. He will walk, get a taxi back, sleep, get a taxi to where he stopped the previous day. Pilgrims who haven’t booked ahead have ended up being taxied to the nearest available place. I’m booked through until Saturday, and will book Sunday as soon as I finish this.
Please note, I’m having issues uploading photos. They will all be on Facebook if you want to see them.
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