Day 24: Ryphusan to Oppdal.

Before I start talking about today, I want to say a little more about yesterday and last night.  I was too cold and tired to write much yesterday.

I arrived in the ‘village’ of Ryphusan mid afternoon and mid downpour.  The village consists of three cabins, seemingly uninhabited, and the converted cowshed that serves as the only accommodation on a 50km stretch of the walk.  You cannot book, it is just a case of turning up and hoping there is space.  Payment is a matter of trust.   There was no mains electricity, no plumbing (water has to be collected from the river) and no mobile signal.

 When I turned up the door was wide open and four people were sitting in there playing Yahtzee.  They were sheltering from the rain, ready to move on when it eased.  Every time I closed the door one of them would open it so that they could keep an eye on the weather.  They were in nice, dry clothes, I was cold and wet. 

The rain eased up and, as the four Germans got ready to leave, a bedraggled Jasper came up the path.  He’d done a 34km stage.  We settled in, collecting water, making hot drinks, chatting about people we had met on the trail.  Jasper had stopped for breakfast at  Kongsvold, where he had bumped into another Dutch couple who were planning to get to Ryphusan.  It was getting late, we’d almost given up hope that they’d arrive.  They eventually arrived, absolutely soaked.  

It was the first time I’ve shared a room on this journey, thankfully none of them were snorers!  But the door made a heck of a racket when anybody popped out to the outhouse.  

This morning, after making a thermos of coffee, Jasper and I set out together.  It was not raining!  We walked the first 13km together.  A good, solid path, mainly downhill, with lots of sheep for company.  We were walking, for the most part,  along the bottom of a valley, with occasional climbs that gave fantastic views down to the river.  

We were making excellent progress.  This was a refreshing change to the past few days where it was a struggle to maintain a 3km/hr pace!  Soon we arrived at St Michael’s Chapel. A modern chapel built specifically for pilgrims.  

It was a lovely, tiny chapel.  And, tempting as it was, I did not ring the bell’

I went on alone from here, back down from the mountains.  Back towards civilisation!  And lupins! These had been conspicuous by their absence at the higher altitudes.  

Coming into Oppdal was a little jarring.  From the wilderness off the mountains where it was more than possible not to see another person all day to a large town, with multiple shops was a shock to the system.  

I took the opportunity to replace one of my pairs of socks.  

Day 23: Kongsvold to Ryphusan

Dinner last night was a disappointment, and an overpriced disappointment too.  I get that there  is nowhere else to go but the prices were more than you’d pay in Oslo or London. Still it is fuel!

This morning I woke to drizzle. The forecast had said that it would rain later in the day and I’d been hoping to get most, if not all, of today’s walk done in the dry.  It was not to be.  And it was cold.  Gloves and rain jacket were the order of the day! 

The first 4k was a challenging uphill slog with a precipitous drop down to the E6.  Amazing waterfalls and scary river crossings were encountered.  Few photos were taken, because the views were hiding.  

After reaching the highest point on the route,1314m, it was a lovely gentle downhill, in increasingly persistent rain, to the only accommodation available on this stretch.  

A converted cowshed, that sleeps up to 10.  It is not possible to book.  There is no mains electricity and no internet, unless you go down to the river.  Which you need to do to get water!  

Short blog today as I am cold and wet!  Not sure when I will upload this. 

Day 22: Dovrefjell Lodge to Kongsvold Fjeldstue

Dinner last night was wonderful.  Three courses, no choice, if you exclude ‘take it or leave it!’ Served at 7pm prompt and only if you had pre-ordered an evening meal.  A couple turned up at 7pm and were turned away.  Their loss. 

I slept well, used the kettle in my room to make a coffee and an instant porridge, packed all my worldly belongings into a backpack that never seems to get any lighter, put my key in the lock and set off.  

It was a little colder, initially, than yesterday but once I got moving I was warm enough, and pretty soon I needed to take my jacket off.  It did occur to me that this stage, and yesterday’s, would have been an entirely different experience in wet weather.  

It was another day of enormous views.  The photos just don’t do them justice.  I didn’t see any reindeer or musk ox, but I was constantly surrounded by birdsong and thanks to the Merlin App was able to identify several species I haven’t seen or heard before.  

Food is a bit dull while I’m walking. There have been no shops at all since I left Toftemo.  I’m living on some rather nice seeded cracker bread, granola bars, tangerines etc. and making sure I get a good meal in the evening.  I still haven’t opened my Haribos or my fudge.  

The route has merged with another path, the Kongevegen (king’s way). So I can now look for blue crown way markers as well as the red and white ones.  Parts of the route are very straight as, according to an information board, they were built according to the ‘French way.’

Eystein church is a modern (1969) building that is visible from miles away. It is perched high on a hillside, approached by a steep climb and houses the local pilgrim centre.  I popped in, had a lovely chat about knitting with the lady volunteering there and went on my merry way. 

Home tonight is a bed in a pilgrim cabin at Kongsvold  Fjeldstue.  I’m in a shared room (two beds).  There are three other rooms- but I haven’t seen or heard anyone else. I’ve booked dinner for 6pm, I am very tired today and just want to eat and sleep.

Day 21: Toftemo to Dovrefjell

I had every intention of having breakfast at my lodgings this morning.  Despite waking up well before 5am, I hung around in my room, did Wordle, read a bit of my book, checked the weather.  At around 7.30am I thought I would pop down and investigate.  If they were going to start serving breakfast at 8am surely there would be some prep going on. Maybe I could just grab a coffee from the machine and a few cold bits and be on my way.  The whole place was locked up, with not a member of staff anywhere.  Another guest, who was coming back from a run, commented that the staff turned up at about 8am - breakfast actually happened a bit later.  I decided not to wait.  I filled my thermos with some instant coffee and set off.

It was a 2k hike back to the trail, but at that point I knew there was a petrol station with a small supermarket.  I picked up breakfast (a disappointing croissant), lunch and, because I was going into the mountains, ‘emergency’ Tangfastics and some fudge.  I then hid the Tangfastics and fudge so deep in my rucksack I’ll probably never find them again.  It is the only safe thing to do.  As I sit here now every fibre of my being is resisting the urge to open one (or both) packets.  Once that happens I will just inhale them! 

There has been a lot of talk about how hard today’s stage would be.  The route goes up into the high mountains.  I had a welcome distraction in the very early stages, a ‘phone call from my friend Richard who is walking the GR5 at the moment.  We compared notes, he wins in terms of size of mountains and number of other walkers met.  I think I win in terms of number of mosquito bites!

About four and a half kilometres (all up hill) in I passed the place I knew that Jasper, Anne and Robert had stayed in. They’d be well on their way by now I thought, only to spot Jasper as I came around a corner.  He’d left late as he was only walking 14k today.  We walked together for a while, but he is from the Netherlands and about 8feet tall and I more closely resemble a hobbit!  My poor little legs would have to work triple time to keep up on this initial, steep, hill so I told him to go on.  

A short while later I came to a picnic bench, it would be churlish not to use it, so I sat for a while,  only to be joined slightly later by Anne and Robert.  We chatted for a while, catching up on who had seen who.  It struck me that every time you say goodbye on this sort of journey you do so in the knowledge that you may not see that person again.  And it is always such a pleasure when you do bump into them.  

The first part of today’s stage was quite steep.  The sort of steep that forces you to stop often to admire the view!  But after about 10km it levelled out a little, it was still uphill until 1210m, but it was much gentler.  Added to this the path was less rocky and there were no face high nettles and brambles overgrowing the path. 

And the views!  The views were phenomenal.  The weather was perfect. Sunny, but with a steady breeze that prevented overheating.  Rivers and boggy bits were crossed. It was one of those exceptional walking days where every view takes one’s breath away, the terrain is just challenging enough and the distance isn’t too far. 

I’ve checked into Dovrefjell Lodge for the night. I’ve done my washing and am crossing my fingers that it will dry (a late start this morning means less time for clothes to dry in the afternoon) and I am about to investigate dinner. 

Day 20: Jørundgard to Toftemo

A fly woke me up.  The room I was in last night was huge, I was the only person in it but there were seven beds in there.  At about 3.30am I woke up and became aware of a very loud fly buzzing around the room.  I tried to ignore it, knowing that there was very little chance I’d be able to catch it, for about an hour but finally admitted defeat and got up! It hadn’t been the best night’s sleep ever.  There had been an open air concert in the courtyard that finished at 9pm.  I think Jasper went and listened to it (and if I catch up with him again I must ask what role the horse played).  I wanted to finish my book so, after a dinner of local beer and local food, I went to bed.  The Jørundgard village has lots of faux ancient buildings that people can wander in and out of.   I’d finished my book by 8.45pm, and was always just on the point of dropping off when someone barged through the door!  The last time it was gone 10pm and I was dead to the world when I realised that someone else was in the room with me!

Local beer

Local food

It was warm when I left, not as warm as the UK has been experiencing in the last few days but warm enough, at 5am, for me to think ‘I hope a lot of the path is through the forest today!’  And up through the forest the path did go!  A lot of the trail could be marked ‘not suitable for wheelchair users’ or ‘likely to necessitate wheelchair use in the near future!’  I managed to fall over from a stationary standing position! I shifted my weight slightly and the rock I was standing on wobbled and tipped me forward! 

Not suitable for wheelchair users!

There were big notices telling walkers not to cross the train track which meant a circuitous path to get around  it. I wished for longer legs on several occasions as I heaved myself up and over huge rocks.  

I passed a couple sitting outside their tent eating breakfast and chatted for a while. I admire people who carry their tents as well as everything else, but have zero desire to do so myself. I am far too old, and far too accustomed to my creature comforts to sleep on the ground! 

Out of the forest and on to tracks and roads, the sun was warm.  I felt as though I was constantly seeking shade and looking for an elusive bench so I could take a break.  Actually, the sun was more than warm!  I knew I was going to pass a camp site and hoped that it would have a cafe or a shop.  It did, but it is Sunday so they were closed!

Arriving in Dovre I saw the two retired Norwegian gentleman I met yesterday.  We sat and chatted for a while before seeing if there was a stamp at the church - there wasn’t.  There were three more Commonwealth War Graves for young soldiers who died in 1940.   While we were chatting a local gave just each a present. Moose salami!

At my overnight accommodation, once I’d checked in, showered, done my washing etc., I sat in the cafe and inhaled my first coffee of the day.  The couple I’d seen earlier in the day walked in.  Antonio and Monica, they live in Oslo although he is Spanish and she is Polish.  They are doing the Gudbrandsdalsleden in sections and had come to the end of their latest stage and are heading back to Oslo for work tomorrow morning. Great to chat with them!

 Tomorrow I have a dilemma.  Breakfast doesn’t start until 8am, but I have a long day.  If the weather is going to be cool I think I will have breakfast (and coffee), maybe make a sandwich to take for lunch.  There are no shops now for three days!  

Day 19: Varphaugen to Jørundgard

A happy return to my early morning starts!  

The first section was a brisk uphill stretch that took me to about 600m above sea level (from a start at around 200m) in about a kilometre and a half.  I was very happy to see a bench with a view that was calling out to be sat on.  I had a snack and sat.  In fact I sat there for over half an hour just enjoying the peace and the view.  

There was a bit more uphill and then it was steeply downhill, with many a zig zag, to get back to the river level.  I stopped for second breakfast, and first coffee, just outside of the town of Otta at a self service bakery.  Now, I’ve seen bread vending machines in France, but this was something else.  I walked in to a small shop with bread, pastries, sandwiches, pots of jam and honey and a coffee machine.  Everything was clearly labelled and there was a touch screen till for self checkout.  I could not work out what all my purchases were (no pictures on the till) so just added items until I got to the correct amount and paid for that, before sitting at the table outside to enjoy my coffee and bun.

I was walking now on the course of Loftsgardsbrua parkrun, which unfortunately for me was cancelled this week, but I paused to take photos at the bridge it is named for.  It would have been nice to have snuck in a sneaky parkrun but it was not to be.  

One of the joys of walking alongside a river at the bottom of a glaciated valley is that it is flat!  Much appreciated after yesterday.  At Sel Church I found three pilgrims sitting at a picnic table.  As I approached one of them said ‘You’re early! You aren’t supposed to be here until 9.30!’

We spent some time chatting.  Two Norwegians, who’d had a rest day yesterday meeting up with their wives and drinking too much beer, and Jasper from the Netherlands.  It is so rare to meet people and these guys were great fun.  Jasper and I walked the next 8km together as we were staying at the same place.  

Jørundgard was built in the 1990s as a film set for the film adaptation of Nobel Prize winner Sigrid Undset’s trilogy ‘Kristin Lavransdatter,’ a book I now feel I should read! 

While we waited for check in time we walked on to Nord Sel church.  We couldn’t go inside because there was a wedding taking place, but I did bump in to Anne & Robert and visit some Commonwealth War Graves.  

A quick WhatsApp message to Tom, proud son of Yorkshire and ex Green Howards elicited the following explanation for these graves:

‘In 1940, we had a couple of punch-ups and escorted some of the Norwegian Royal family out of the country.

They were tasked with delaying the Germans. They were asked to hold them for 6 hours and held on for 24.   Stubborn Yorkshire bastards, but costly - about 30 dead. 

King Haakon refused to allow the government to collaborate, and refused to abdicate. 

Once in England he became the Colonel in Chief of the Green Howard's and his son Olaf and grandson Harald after him.’

I paid my respects and marvelled at how well maintained these war graves were compared to some I have seen.  But then, I’ve passed by lots of graveyards in the last couple of weeks and they have all been immaculate and well tended.  

Back on the ‘film set’ it was time for a quick shower and a nap before dinner later this evening.

Day 18: Kvam to Varphaugen

What a day.  The luxury of not having to get up early very quickly became a tedious wait to get going.  I ate a lot of breakfast, washed down with three cups of coffee and made myself a cheese sandwich for my lunch.  Then I waited for the bus.  I’d had two options this morning, either 01:51 or 10:53! And the early bus would have meant that I missed breakfast!

I sat in my room and watched the rain.  I did some admin stuff for my upcoming trip to Tiree with the Gold DofE Army cadets and got myself an eSIM - all this in addition to the really important tasks of completing Wordle and doing my Duolingo for the day! And checking the progress of my bus every two minutes.  It was delayed.  Eventually arriving at around 11.30am.  At least, with my room only being a few metres from the bus stop, I could wait in the dry.

The bus ride was only about 10 minutes long, a fifth of the time was spent in a tunnel, meaning I was back on the trail by noon.  In my original plan yesterday and today were one stage which, according to the planning tool, was 33.6km long.  I’d walked just over 22km yesterday so was anticipating a short and sweet 12km today.  

There must have been a million stiles in tbe first kilometre and a half!  I thought that stiles would be the main feature of the walk and wondered how the lady from the Netherlands who was walking with her dog was coping. 

Then came the forest trails.  Every so often there would be a fallen tree across the path.  Sometimes I could step over them, sometimes it was an ungainly scramble and on more than one occasion I had to crawl underneath them!  The soil is very shallow so often when one tree falls it takes several other with it. 

One multiple tree falls looked a bit tricky to navigate my way through so I thought I would ‘just go around’ it.  Big mistake!  These trees are huge and I ended up so far off the path it took me ages to get back on track.   

The forest was beautiful!  The rocky floor was covered in a squishy carpet of mosses and lichens. Lichens are a pollution indicator, I’ve never seen lichen on such a huge scale (all the whitish bits in the photo above are lichen) which bodes well for the air quality.

Cheese sandwich for lunch

It was super slow work today.  A couple of missed turns didn’t help:

There’s a signpost here!

I was also very aware that the vast majority of this section was rife with trip and slip hazzards, especially after the rain earlier in the day. Even getting to this bridge was tricky:

What I thought was going to be 12km was closer to 14, but took forever!  I was very glad I preordered dinner and even happier that I arrived in time!