Day 15: Tretten to Ringebu.

Today was such a different day to yesterday!  I had the worst night’s sleep I’ve had in a long old time.  The cabin I was in was perfectly serviceable, but it was a little like sleeping in an oven.  So stuffy that I was surprised to walk out to a chilly morning (sorry to everyone at home, I know you are enduring intolerably heat).  I posted my cabin key into the keybox and hiked up the hill to rejoin the path.  

I had a fantastic day of walking!  A mixture of forest trails and roads in just the right proportions, with a well placed bench for my breakfast stop. 

I knew that I needed to pick up food for tonight so took a detour into the town of Favang to visit the supermarket there.  It was about 7km before my end point so I didn’t want to carry anything too heavy (noodles for dinner tonight), as I made my way back to the path I thought ‘A coffee shop would be nice right about now!’ And, given it was only 9.30am, an open one would be even better.  Most places seem to open quite late.  I paused to cross a road, looked up and saw just what I was looking for!  

I decided that I should order something more substantial than a mere coffee, and ended up with a toasted chicken and bacon sandwich, with chips and there’s even a little bit of healthy green stuff in there too!  This came with a free coffee and free refills. Happy days!  I think I sat there for about an hour!  I’ve decided that, as cafes are few and far between, I should make good use of them whenever possible.  

I also made use of the mirror in the toilet to do something with my hair.  I’d meant to get it cut before leaving home, but ran out of time.  When it is short I never bother brushing it, just run my fingers through it and it seems OK.  Now however it is bordering on looking less like a mad scientist and more like Jimmy Saville.  Not a great look!  I’d picked up a hairbrush and some hair lies at the supermarket so now I can scrape my hair back into the most ridiculously small ponytail!

As I neared Ringebu I discovered some odd art in the forest.  And a stunning view point.  I also remembered to contact my host to let him know I was nearly there.  

I got to Ringebu much more quickly than I expected.  Rather than wait for my host I walked on to Ringebu Church, grabbed a coffee from a kiosk opposite the church and then had a look around this historic stave church.  I had intended to visit first thing tomorrow- but I wouldn’t have been able to go inside as it doesn’t open until 10am.

Back at Klokkargården Halstad my host, Einar, showed me around my accommodation for the night.  He thinks I’ll probably have the whole place to myself as no one else had booked.  I’m in another former school house (strangely I dreamt I had accepted a teaching job at a school where someone I would never see again works).  The place is HUGE!  I keep getting a bit lost!

Pretty bed for the night

Day 14: Nermo to Tretten

Last night I had a wild meat stew.  Moose and venison (I think) with mushrooms.  It was delicious and very filling.  It also came with mashed potatoes so I was very happy!

This morning I set off in high spirits.  I’d slept well, eaten well and all was right with the world.  The last couple of days have been quite relaxed and easy.  Nice smooth paths under foot and the ability to make fairly steady progress. Today the trail reminded me that the going is not always easy and is quite often scary! There were sections of narrow path with a sheer drop to one side, enough uneven ground to trip up a mountain goat, stiles that just about stayed up as you clambered across them, ‘gates’ with no hinges that you just had to somehow lift and move so that you could get through and several wobbly wooden bridges.  

I made slow progress, struggling to find the path at some points. 

There is a way marker in this picture and it isn’t pointing up the hill!  It took me ages trying to find it.  At this point, about 21k in, I was pretty much losing the will to live, I’d been up that hill, down a couple of parallel paths and been unable to find the path.  I’d just seen the teeny tiny marker and was heading off, through the nettles, when I heard someone call me. A and R from Australia were here!  Just exactly what I needed to pick up my mood… and to witness me falling on my backside as I scrambled down a steep hill.  

We have got cabins in a campsite on the edge of lake Mjøsa.  The cafe at the site sells beer and pizza, as well as ice cream, so no prizes for guessing what I’m having for supper!

Day 13: Lillehamer to Nermo

Today is the longest day! Not in terms of distance walked but in hours of daylight.  17.5hts of daylight at home.  Meanwhile, I’m still struggling with 24hrs of daylight.  I realised yesterday afternoon or, I should say, evening that the daylight affects more than just my sleep pattern.   I normally have a rough idea of what time it is, looking at my watch is a confirmation, allowing me to work out exactly how many minutes I have left to get to Waitrose before it closes.  Here I am frequently looking at my watching and being surprised to find it is 7 or 8pm! 

This morning I tidied up my AirBnB, put the bed linen and towels in the washing machine, loaded the dishwasher and set it off.  It was a very cute little apartment, a lucky find, costing me about the same for two nights as some of the central Lillehamer hotels were charging for a single night.  And, thanks to the washing machine, everything I have with me is now clean (apart from my mind!)

I set off on the path out of Lillehamer, walking through residential areas, taking note of the different architectural styles and doing an informal tally of the most popular makes of robot lawn mowers.  I think Husqvana is winning - but I keep losing count!

I knew I was on the right track when I crossed Skurva Bru.  A stone bridge built by Engebret Heave in 1825 for 148 silver coins. So far so good. Pleasant, easy, slightly uphill walking with the near constant accompaniment of the sound of running water as rivers drained down to the lake in the valley below.  

And then, following my online map as the markers were few and far between, I was about to go through an underpass when I just happened to notice a sign.  Not a life changing, road to Damascus, but a sign nonetheless.  It was set back from the path a bit and, quite often, I walk past these signs as they are often only in Norwegian.  But this time I stopped. 

The sign told me that the path had been rerouted due to major roadworks to build the new E6.  We were to ignore our maps and follow the route in the map on the sign and the way makers.  I took a photo and followed the first way marker.  The second way marker was AGES further down the road, slap bang in the middle of the opening to an underpass.  I looked at  my photographed map.  There was no scale and no buildings were marked on it, but I knew at some point I had to cross this road, so it seemed like a good idea.  I carried on, saw a couple of way markers and thought ‘Happy days!’  And then came to a fenced off bit!  Oops - they were the old way markers.  I trudged back up the hill. Comparing two versions of a similar map on a ‘phone screen in bright sunlight was not easy.  I was also not helped but the infrequent route markers and route markers that had been moved.  One was zip tied to a lamppost and had been moved to tell me to go 90° in the wrong direction. Fun times!

This sign was upside down, in the road when I found it!

I decided not to worry too much and plotted a course that would take me back to the path at a point I hoped the road work would be over.  Luckily my map reading skills haven't totally deserted me! 

I thought today was going to be a long day but it seems I wrote the distance incorrectly.  Either that or tomorrow is going to be a very long day!  Soon after walking under cable cars I was at my stop for the night.  I think I clocked just over 21km, and that includes a side track down into the centre of Oyer to post some postcards (and buy a brown cheese ice cream).  

Day 12: Rest Day in Lillehamer and Lillestrøm

A short while after I posted yesterday’s blog a wonderful member of the With Me Now community pointed out that, if I was willing to travel a little further and to head back towards Oslo rather than towards Trondheim I could make it to a parkrun.  He suggested I get the 7.22am train to Lillestrøm which gets in at 9.15am.  The station being a 9 minute walk from the start of Flomvollen parkrun, it would just work.  I’m used to UK trains, so got the 6.15am train just to be on the safe side.  Who needs a lie in?  The train, of course, ran on time.

It was a little sobering to think that, in just two hours, I was retracing a journey that had taken me 10 days!  It was fun to watch the scenery whizz by. The train hugged the edge of the lake meaning I could see bits of the path I had walked and landmarks, like the Wood Hotel, from a different perspective.

I was very  early for parkrun!  But the run director and several other volunteers were already there. I’d emailed the team the night before, asking if me walking was a problem.  Yes, I know parkrun encourages walkers, but this is a relatively new event and I didn’t want all the volunteers to be pissed off at having to wait for some daft English woman who didn’t have trainers with her.  I can honestly say that I have never been made to feel so welcome at a parkrun.

The course is two, clockwise laps along the flood wall.  Lillestrøm is prone to flooding and the creation of the flood wall has resulted in a lovely park, filled with historic artefacts and modern sculptures.  It is a flat parkrun on tarmac and gravel parks, there’s an out and back section which is great for supporting other parkrunners.  

This was only the 11th event, but the community already feels firmly established.  There were around 100 runners and a fair proportion of them went for coffee afterwards.  I was just going to get the train back to Lillehamer, but it seemed rude just to run and go when so many people were asking me to come for coffee.  Plus 15% parkrun discount and cinnamon buns!  I am, as always, humbled by everyone else’s ability to speak English!  

Oh… Flomvollen parkrun have a tambourine.  I think every parkrun should have one!

Day 10: Ringen to Brottum

Last night, at supper, one of the residents at the centre sat down at my table and, on finding out I was British, asked if I wanted to talk about football or politics!  I know nothing about football and was rather hoping to get away from the divisive political environment at home.  Luckily I had a Team meeting I needed to attend so was able to escape relatively quickly!

Today has been a very leisurely day.  A late start and a  short distance meant I could take it nice and easy.  I stopped frequently to admire the views.  The climb up the side of the valley meant that every corner provided a new view.  I thought back to the days of cameras that used film.  I’d probably have packed a couple of 36 exposure films for the entire trip, and when I’d eventually got them developed I’d have forgotten where some of them were taken.  

I got to my finish point for the day, Olasvehaugen jury outside Brøttum, soon after 11am.  The owner was there to show me  around.  Last year he only had one English person stay, this year he has had four already.  I think it must the because of the article in The Times.

I had my pick of the 4 available beds in the two room cabin.  It is very rustic.  There is an outdoor toilet at a distance far enough from my bed to make me seriously consider limiting all liquid intake from now on, and an outdoor shower that I am nowhere near European/Scandi enough to use!  The views however from the shower would be awesome!

Outdoor shower

View from outdoor shower

Once I’d taken off my pack I walked the 3.5k down to Brottum.  It is amazing how much difference not having 10kg on your back makes.  I wanted to buy some stamps and post some postcards and, as I’m hoping to wake up and leave fairly early tomorrow, I didn’t want to risk the shop not being open.  I also took the opportunity to pop to the church to get a stamp for my passport before returning back up the hill ready to spend the afternoon reading a book!

Day 9: Brumenddal to Ringen

A hearty home made supper last  night was followed by a great night’s sleep.  I knew I was going to have a lie in as our hostess was making breakfast for 7am.  It was pleasant to chat with Liv, who owns the farm and learn more about the history of the farm and the area.  I was more than happy swap an early start for this. 

The walking today was on a combination of farm tracks, country lanes and forest trails.  Nice easy walking with few trip hazards. It was rather warmer than in recent days which made the last few kilometres, all up hill, a little bit more hard work than I would like.  

The first two possible coffee stops were shut.  They didn’t open until 12noon.  Such a shame, I’d probably have stopped at both.  All morning, in fact for all of the walk, I was treated to wonderful lake views.  Shimmering in the sunshine, it looks so inviting but I hear it is VERY cold. 

After having a look around another church, this one, Ringsaker, is right on the lake shore giving the graves one of the best views possible.

A little later, approaching a town called Moelv, I decided to stop for lunch.  It was very nearly 12noon and I knew the town had several restaurants and cafes.  Most of them opened at either 1pm or 3pm!  I found one place, a bakery and coffee shop, that was open.  It was the first place I walked past at the bottom of the high street but I walked all the up the high street to see what else was available before conceding defeat and returning to the bottom of the high street and the first place I had seen!

After lunch it was about 6k to my destination for the evening. The first 2 km were fairly flat, going passed a mini Stonehenge before turning to zigzag up the hill to the Ringen Rehabilitation Centre.  A former TB clinic, which now seems to do post op rehab and also allows those on the pilgrim trail to stay.  It will be another late start tomorrow, I’ve paid for breakfast so I will hang around to eat it.  

Day 8: Hamar to Brumenddal

I think I am a little bit in love with Norway! Leaving Hamar as children made their way to school, the younger ones accompanied by a parent, the older ones on their own.  Many of them on bikes.  The cyclists here are the most courteous I have met, always giving way to pedestrians on shared pavements and always getting off their bikes to walk across pedestrians crossings.  Cars always seem to give pedestrians plenty of space. People just seem very polite.  

Today started a little later than normal as I had to wait for my hotel breakfast!  And this time, as well as making myself a packed lunch I remembered to fill my flask with coffee. I walked out of Hamar along the edge of Mjøsa Lake and up through a nature reserve.  It rained a little, so I got my rain jacket out and put it on, which of course scared the rain away.  The rest of the day was sunshine and blue skies! Not too warm, perfect walking weather.  

I’d promised myself a coffee stop at Furnes Church.  When I got there I met another pilgrim who was just about to leave.  We chatted for a while.  He is from Trondheim and is walking the route in stages, spending about a week each year on the path.  We discovered that we had the same destination this evening.  I sat for a while after he had left, enjoying my coffee and totally forgetting about the snacks I had planned to eat!  

Today the route took me through forests, farmland, quiet residential streets and Brumddal town centre.  I quite enjoy a bit of residential walking.  I find the varied architecture styles fascinating, love a glimpse through an uncurtained window and watching all the robot lawnmowers…well, they are a revelation!  Almost every garden seems to have one toiling away while their owners are nowhere to be seen.  

My home for the night is Koss Gard (Gard means farm).  I’m in the main house, the hostess showed the two of us around, showed us where the food she had made for our dinner was and then left for work, telling us she would be back to make breakfast for us at 7am tomorrow.  She just left us, total strangers, in the home that has been in her family for generations, on our own.  

I think this is one of the things that makes this journey so special.  The places we stay are not just a place to sleep. They are unique, and we are trusted guests.  When I started planning this trip I had no idea  how different the pilgrim accommodation here would be compared to the Spanish albergues.  And I thought that it all sounded very over priced.  I was wrong!  I think tonight will cost me the equivalent of about £55 for dinner, bed (linen and towels included) and breakfast in the most stunning setting.