South Downs Way. Part One: Winchester to Queen Elizabeth Country Park...

....or over the M3 and under the A3!

On Wednesday I realised that I had nothing planned for Friday.  A whole free day!  Quite a rarity, I had no idea that retirement would be so busy!  What was I going to do?  How about a walk?  I've lived near the South Downs Way for thirty years however I have never, knowingly, stepped foot on it,  I wasn't even 100% sure where it started and ended.  But Google soon sorted that out for me: Winchester to Eastbourne.   This could work.  I have too much on to walk the full 100miles in one go, but as a series day walks seemed like a fun idea.

Husbando drove me over to Winchester, we had breakfast together and I filled my thermos with coffee before setting off.  It didn't take long to leave the city behind, crossing the M3 and striking out across the fields while the noise of traffic faded.  I stopped for a coffee at Cheesfoot Head, now the venue of the Boomtown but formerly used as a staging post for American troops in the run up to the D-day landings.  The coffee van made the best coffee I have had in years - I bought a bag of beans despite having to carry them all day.

The countryside is genteelly and quietly beautiful.  I was walking through landscapes similar to the ones I have lived in for decades, but have rarely spent much time enjoying.  When planning 'adventures' it seems that I am more likely to go abroad explore near home.  And that’s a shame.  I was reminded of conversations I’d had with Norwegians while I was walking St Olav’s Way.  They would quite often spend a couple of days walking a section of longer trails.  

The path was fairly easy to follow.  I suspect it is quite a lot busier in the summer.  The joy of a route that people walk in both directions is that you need to stop to have a conversation.  I met a father and his two daughters.  They had started from ‘Eastbourne 10years ago’ and were on the very last 10k into Winchester when we met.  I’d just popped out from behind a hedge where I’d had a wild wee when I bumped into them! Apart from that there was a man from America - we chatted about various long distance walks we’d done, and another man from Swansea who I quizzed about the availability of pubs further along the way.  There were plenty of cyclists- whizzing past with a cheerful wave.

I’d packed a lunch (ham and cheese sandwich, salt and vinegar crisps, tangerine, small tub of home made granola) with every intention of finding a well placed picnic bench.  I’d got used to no cafes in Norway. However, I reached the end of the first stage, Exton, at lunchtime.  The Shoe at Exton was just off the path, the lunch menu was appealing.  The idea of a noce cold pint of beer was also appealing, but with another 20km to walk after lunch I decided a non alcoholic beverage would be more sensible.

I don’t normally walk more than 25 - 30k a day and I have to admit the later parts of the walk were a wee bit of a challenge!  I was fortified by a cup of tea and a sticky bun at a cafe on the banks of a fishing lake, but a diversion due to a closed section of the path with only 10k to go was not welcome.  

I’d been lucky with the weather.  It was warm, but not too warm and there was even some blue sky!  But in the last 8k the wind picked up and the rain came down!  The last section took me down Butser Hill.  My tired legs did not appreciate that! Then under the A3 to Queen Elizabeth Country Park where Husbando and I had arranged to meet.  

I’m already plotting the next stage… 

Day 31: Øysand to Nidaros/Trondheim

The sun came out last night at about 7pm.  Just as we were eating our food at the camp site restaurant.  This was not fine dining, but the beer was cold, the food was hot and the company was good.  

The sun really did shine all night, in preparation for another grey day today.  The last day.   Bag packed, room locked and off I set for the last stretch.  It wasn’t actually raining, but it was grey and overcast.  

The first few kilometres were on pancake flat minor roads.  Then there was a long, steep uphill section before heading off the roads and onto root infested forest paths.  Signs counting down the distance to the cathedral started to appear which was very exciting.  Having not had breakfast before leaving I was on the look out for a picnic bench and not finding one.  I’d have settled for a coffee shop - but they are rarer than rocking horse poo!  At about 11km I found a simple bench, sat down, ate my tangerine and a cracker, did today’s Wordle and had a telephone conversation with Richard (who is walking the GR55 right now).

A little after breakfast the 14km marker came into view.  Followed about 500m later by a sign announcing that the remaining distance was 14.7km! 

The last day is always an odd one.  Eager to finish, reluctant to end the adventure!  Last night we’d listened the things we are looking forward to (after the obvious‘seeing family and friends’).  Indoor plumbing topped the list, closely followed by a comfortable chair and coffee shops.  It took a long time for my little ‘pilgrim family’ to form, and it is strange to think that dinner tonight will mark the last time we are all together.  

The walk into Trondheim was an up and down, zig zagging rollercoaster.  The cathedral was visible but never seemed to get any closer, until suddenly it was just right there in front of me.  I found the marker, snapped a selfie and made my way into to coffee shop.  I was delighted to see Brenda there, she always leaves really early so she was already tucking into a slice of cake and a mug of coffee.  

After checking into our hotels and having a quick shower we headed to the Pilgrim Centre to collect our ‘Olavsbrev’.  We’d managed to find our way from Oslo to Trondheim fairly easily, but finding the pilgrim centre was not without its challenges.  

They are very tall!

After that, lunch and tourist stuff.  More of that another time.

Day 30: Skaun to Øysand

Let’s talk a little more about last night before I get to today.  The accommodation was basic in the extreme.  A village hall, with a stack of mattresses and z-beds and a paper ‘sheet’ to lay on top of the mattresses.  No pillows.  There was a shower in the ladies’ toilet area (and I assume similar in the gents’).  A glass cubicle in direct line of sight to the main (unlockable) door.  Absolutely no where to hang dry clothes or a towel.  The kitchen was well equipped, and there were shoe dryers (essential after walking through the bog), but these were in the only part of the building with seating  - you can imagine the smell resulting from 12 pairs of boots drying!  They also made a noise.  Occasionally one or more of them would make a repeated banging noise (like someone hammering a nail in).  Great fun!  All this for 500NOK.  So not cheap.  The volunteer who greeted us, and gave us a tour of the church was lovely.  She took pity on us because of the cold and wet weather and made a huge quantity of waffles for us. However, given that the ‘workforce’ at this accommodation are volunteers, it did seem quite expensive compared to other places I’ve stayed.  

While we were sitting around, chatting and eating biscuits, in the afternoon evening we welcomed a steady stream of fellow pilgrims.  Catching up with ‘old friends’ and getting to know new people.  At about 6pm a new face came through the door.  He came straight up to me and asked if I was ‘the staff!’  I replied that I was not,  but showed him around anyway.  He was a bit put out that his bed wasn’t ready for him, and that there were not many options for placement of that bed left.  I thought it odd that he had not introduced himself, or said anything other than questions about the accommodation, but returned to the biscuits and the chat.  

A little later, after he had taken a shower and walked back through the sitting area in just his underpants, he came to find me to demand the WiFi password.  I pointed him to the sign on the wall with the instructions.  He read them and told me that they didn’t work. How had I got on to the WiFi?  Reader, I told him a little fib.  I said I hadn’t bothered.  His attitude really wound me up, so I just suggested he work through the instructions.  He got a bit cross.  He asked one of the others how she’d got on the WiFi and didn’t like the ‘I followed the instructions’ reply!  If he’d just been a little more polite I am sure one of us would have helped him.  He complained about the WiFi to the lovely volunteer too…

Anyway, my reward for not being kind was an awful night!  12 of us in the room, thankfully no snorers, but some of the beds creaked loudly whenever the occupant moved, and the boot dryers in the next room clanked intermittently.  I turned one off, but I think someone must have turned it back on.  Anyway, I gave up on sleep at 4.30am!

It was an uphill start today.  The sky was grey and, for the entire distance it was either raining or threatening to rain! It felt like autumn.  And not one of those Indian summer autumn days.  It was properly chilly!  The autumn feel was exacerbated in the forests.  Lots of fungi and fallen trees.

Some (rather a lot) of the route was an insanely steep descent.  At one point I slipped, fell on my arse, all tbe while grabbing hold of a walking pole, which dug deep into the soft and squishy mud. When I let go of the pole so that I could get up it bounced back and hit me in the face!  I was half way down another section when it occurred to me that this might tbe section the guide book suggested avoiding if it has been raining!

Today was a short day.  I arrived at my destination well before 11am, and before my room was ready.  The hostess let me in and gave me coffee which was very welcome.  Apparently there are four more pilgrims staying here tonight.  Their suitcases are in reception.  I may have booked dinner here but I have no desire to meet new people tonight.  I messaged Brenda and Jasper, who are staying nearby, and we will grab a taxi to take us somewhere!  

Day 29: Løkken Verk to Skaun

My room last night was on the top floor.  It was cosy and warm but, when the rain started to bucket down in  the middle of the night it was loud!  That was ok, I needed an early start.  I made a quick breakfast, packed a couple of cheese rolls for lunch and set off. 

A short stretch out of the town on the tarmac was about all the proper road we saw today (apart from the last kilometre).  After crossing  railway tracks, we were soon up in the forest.   It wasn’t raining, but it wasn’t warm, and the trees would occasionally decide that they should drop all the water from their leaves onto our heads.  The rain jacket was definitely the right choice.

A stop for second breakfast outside the shooting club building at about 10k in was just what the doctor ordered. While there Margien from the Netherlands walked past.  We chatted for a while at the start of what would be a prolonged game of leapfrog.  

A little further on we came to what the guide describes as ‘a rest stop with the ambience of a living room.’ What choice did we have but to stop?   It was a chance to regroup before the upcoming bog stage!  4km of bog to be crossed, and I still can’t work out how the Norwegians manage to maintain bogs on a steep hill.  Some of the way was made slightly easier by plank walk ways.  I say ‘slightly’ because wet, wooded boards are very slippery.  It was a fun walk.  Lots of time spent looking at my feet’

Home for tonight is a church hall in Skaum.  Apparently there will be 11 of us tonight. We had to erect our own  beds.  The volunteer will be back to give us our obligatory tour of the church at 7pm this evening.

Day 28: Segard Hoel to Løkken Verk

I forget, yesterday, to mention the Norwegian couple we met along the way, and who were camping at Segard Hoel.  His rucksack was HUGE, and hers was not small. Turns out that his rucksack was 27kg and hers was 15kg.  I can’t imagine walking on this terrain with a 27kg pack!  He had a huge beard.  We christened him ‘the Viking!’

Last night’s accommodation was, hmm, ok!  Put it this way, I had to look through a lot of pillows to find one that didn’t have dubious stains on it!  The company was good, and the food filling so I’ll take that as a win. 

It was an early start today.  There was only a short distance to cover, but the destination town included a yarn shop and a museum!  I’m not sure we quite anticipated arriving at 10.15am, but at least the coffee shop in the museum was open.

The walk had been relatively easy, but it was rather chilly!  I didn’t take my gloves off for the entire morning.  At 8km there was a stop at Meldal Church.  The key was in the door so we went in - but the alarm started beeping so after a very quick look we were on our way!  I was glad of a short day today as my Achilles was ‘a wee bit ouchy’ - I’ve tapped it up and told it that we don’t have far to go now so it can just behave! (I’m typing this with my ankle on a bag of frozen spinach which is a quarter the price of a packet of  frozen peas).

The Industrial Museum was fascinating - a history of mining in the area and a train museum! There is a special historic train that apparently lots of pilgrims take for the first few kilometres of tomorrow’s walk.  I seriously considered it, but it doesn’t leave until 11am and there will still be about 20k to complete after the train. 

Home tonight is a ‘historic hotel.’  The confirmation email said that reception would be open between 9 and 2, outside that we could check in using a door code.  We got there at 10.30ish - no one in sight, let ourselves in so we could leave our bags.  Eventually found a cleaner who gave us our keys!  

One of the main reasons I chose to stop in Lokken Verk was for the wool shop, Fortuna.  I dragged my walking buddies along.  They patiently waited while  added a few rows to the community knitting project outside the shop. The owner was friendly and we chatted all things stitchy for a while.  Instagram Link

Lunch was a delicious, calorie heavy, kebab.  We worked off some of those calories walking to the church to get a stamp for our passports.  We didn’t realise it was over 2k away and uphill.  And when we got there we discovered there was no stamp!

I rewarded myself with 15mins in the massage chair along the corridor from my room!

Day 27: Meslo Gard to Segard Hoel

New faces quickly become old friend on a long distance, multi stage walk.  Last night was case in point.  Friends made only a few days or weeks ago are always a welcome sight.  

I’d paid for breakfast, so another late start was guaranteed. I didn’t make a lunch as the pilgrim guide book told me there was a cafe en route that was actually going to be open on a Sunday.  But first there was some walking to do. 

First stop was Rennebu Church. This is one of only five Y shaped churches.  We were treated to a tour of the beautiful wooden interior, made sure our pilgrim passports were stamped, availed ourselves of the toilets and were soon back on our way.

Quite a bit of today was spent on a gravel road, the rest on forest ‘paths.’  Some of these paths were practically invisible due to the number of felled and fallen trees that needed to be negotiated.  More than one tricky river crossing was made.  Sadly there is no video evidence of the truly scary one, we were just relieved to be over!

Two thirds of the way in we arrived at the pilgrim cafe.  It was lunch time!  Ham and cheese omelettes, with toast, followed by home made apple cake and coffee. Delicious.  

Just as we were about to leave people we knew arrived. So that delayed our departure a little.  A whole hour for lunch!  At least we’d dodged some of the rain.  It had been weird weather, bright sunshine, brief, heavy downpours and a stiff wind that ensured a fairly chilly day.  

Accommodation tonight is in an old farmhouse.  There are seven people here tonight, three I have not met before which is exciting. For only the second time this trip I am sharing a room - but still no bunk bed!

Day 26: Langklopp to Meslo

Last night three pilgrims and our hosts, Knut and Helene, had dinner together.  Tacos, followed by ice cream and an early night.  This mountain farm was so quiet at night that a good night’s sleep was almost guaranteed.  Two of us were staying for breakfast, promised for 7.30am so a lie in was the order of the day. 

Helene and Knut make breakfast

With only 21k to cover today I was in no hurry to get started, so had a relaxed breakfast, made myself a packed lunch, paid my bill and set off.  

The weather was overcast for the most part, but there was also some sunshine and a little rain.  I walked several kilometres along roads without seeing a single car, there were also ‘off road’ sections that offered variety, including walking along the banks of the Orkla river.

There was a lot of downhill today, with enough short and steep sections to remind one that this is no walk in the park.  The last kilometre and a half was alongside a ‘really busy’ road.  I saw about twelve cars! 

Meslo Gard is my home for tonight.  It is a working farm.  Haven’t seen anyone here, but the sign told me to let myself if, find a bed, help myself to coffee and cake, shower etc. so that is what I have done.  The trust is amazing!