Day 11: Brøttum to Lillehamer

I don’t think Tom, the owner of Olasvehaugen, believed me when I said I wanted to pay last night as I’d have left before he was up and about this morning!  I was seen off the property by a poultry honour guard at around 5.30am.

I set off in a light drizzle.   It was so inconsequential that I didn’t bother with my long sleeved jacket let alone my hated rain jacket.  For once this was the correct decision as the rain soon stopped.  It remained overcast for much of the morning but that is fine by me as, being a north european white woman I have a tendency to burn and/or overheat!  And falling asleep in a hammock yesterday afternoon was not the cleverest thing I have ever done!

Today was a net downhill day, but with enough up hill to keep me on my toes, the paths were mostly good, with the exception of a short stretch with over grown, head height wet grass (and sneaky hidden nettles).  If there were views to be seen on that section I missed them! The path is still alongside Lake Mjøsa, so lake views were the order of the day.

The final stretch into Lillehamer was alongside a main road.  Not the most wonderful of walking paths, but the drivers were polite, slowing down and giving me plenty of space.  I was on the look out for a coffee shop so I could take off my pack and sit for a while.  I was unsure if I’d be able to get into my AirBnB early and wanted to kill time.  I found a church instead.  

Lillehammer Church

I’ve noticed that churches in Norway seem to be on the outskirts of towns or villages, but at least this meant I was nearly there!  I stopped for a while and chatted to two cyclists from Dortmund before heaving my bag back on and walking into the town!

On the two occasions I’ve been to Amsterdam I’ve missed out on poffertjes because I’ve had to travel at a different time to the rest of the group.  When I saw them on offer in Lillehammer I had to try them.  These were a savoury version: bacon, mushroom, peppers, onion, rosemary and they were delicious!  I may have to head back for a sweet version…

I walked past my accommodation on the marked path, and then cut back.  I wanted to make sure I have the shortest possible route back on to the path when I leave.  My host was happy for me to check in early, I’d messaged to ask if I could drop my bag so that I didn’t have to carry it all day and was told the place was ready so I could go ahead and check in.  It is a cute little studio apartment which even had a washing machine!  It will be so nice to have properly washed clothes rather than the results of trying to hand wash in less than ideal conditions!

I wasted a fair bit of time trying to work out if I could get to a parkrun tomorrow morning.  The nearest one is cancelled this weekend, but I thought Loftsgardsbrua might be achievable by train.  It is not.  Well, if I was happy to get a train that arrived at 2.50am and wait for the 9.30am start it could work. 

So tomorrow will be a proper rest day.  I’ll have a mooch around Lillehammer, I’ve already discovered that everywhere is uphill and that there are many yarn shops!   I have struggled with not having anything to keep my hands busy while reading so gave one to temptation and bought a small amount of yarn from the sale table outside one of the shops.  I think I’ll stay in tonight, I picked up supplies from the supermarket and a lazy evening is just what I want. 

Day 10: Ringen to Brottum

Last night, at supper, one of the residents at the centre sat down at my table and, on finding out I was British, asked if I wanted to talk about football or politics!  I know nothing about football and was rather hoping to get away from the divisive political environment at home.  Luckily I had a Team meeting I needed to attend so was able to escape relatively quickly!

Today has been a very leisurely day.  A late start and a  short distance meant I could take it nice and easy.  I stopped frequently to admire the views.  The climb up the side of the valley meant that every corner provided a new view.  I thought back to the days of cameras that used film.  I’d probably have packed a couple of 36 exposure films for the entire trip, and when I’d eventually got them developed I’d have forgotten where some of them were taken.  

I got to my finish point for the day, Olasvehaugen jury outside Brøttum, soon after 11am.  The owner was there to show me  around.  Last year he only had one English person stay, this year he has had four already.  I think it must the because of the article in The Times.

I had my pick of the 4 available beds in the two room cabin.  It is very rustic.  There is an outdoor toilet at a distance far enough from my bed to make me seriously consider limiting all liquid intake from now on, and an outdoor shower that I am nowhere near European/Scandi enough to use!  The views however from the shower would be awesome!

Outdoor shower

View from outdoor shower

Once I’d taken off my pack I walked the 3.5k down to Brottum.  It is amazing how much difference not having 10kg on your back makes.  I wanted to buy some stamps and post some postcards and, as I’m hoping to wake up and leave fairly early tomorrow, I didn’t want to risk the shop not being open.  I also took the opportunity to pop to the church to get a stamp for my passport before returning back up the hill ready to spend the afternoon reading a book!

Day 9: Brumenddal to Ringen

A hearty home made supper last  night was followed by a great night’s sleep.  I knew I was going to have a lie in as our hostess was making breakfast for 7am.  It was pleasant to chat with Liv, who owns the farm and learn more about the history of the farm and the area.  I was more than happy swap an early start for this. 

The walking today was on a combination of farm tracks, country lanes and forest trails.  Nice easy walking with few trip hazards. It was rather warmer than in recent days which made the last few kilometres, all up hill, a little bit more hard work than I would like.  

The first two possible coffee stops were shut.  They didn’t open until 12noon.  Such a shame, I’d probably have stopped at both.  All morning, in fact for all of the walk, I was treated to wonderful lake views.  Shimmering in the sunshine, it looks so inviting but I hear it is VERY cold. 

After having a look around another church, this one, Ringsaker, is right on the lake shore giving the graves one of the best views possible.

A little later, approaching a town called Moelv, I decided to stop for lunch.  It was very nearly 12noon and I knew the town had several restaurants and cafes.  Most of them opened at either 1pm or 3pm!  I found one place, a bakery and coffee shop, that was open.  It was the first place I walked past at the bottom of the high street but I walked all the up the high street to see what else was available before conceding defeat and returning to the bottom of the high street and the first place I had seen!

After lunch it was about 6k to my destination for the evening. The first 2 km were fairly flat, going passed a mini Stonehenge before turning to zigzag up the hill to the Ringen Rehabilitation Centre.  A former TB clinic, which now seems to do post op rehab and also allows those on the pilgrim trail to stay.  It will be another late start tomorrow, I’ve paid for breakfast so I will hang around to eat it.  

Day 8: Hamar to Brumenddal

I think I am a little bit in love with Norway! Leaving Hamar as children made their way to school, the younger ones accompanied by a parent, the older ones on their own.  Many of them on bikes.  The cyclists here are the most courteous I have met, always giving way to pedestrians on shared pavements and always getting off their bikes to walk across pedestrians crossings.  Cars always seem to give pedestrians plenty of space. People just seem very polite.  

Today started a little later than normal as I had to wait for my hotel breakfast!  And this time, as well as making myself a packed lunch I remembered to fill my flask with coffee. I walked out of Hamar along the edge of Mjøsa Lake and up through a nature reserve.  It rained a little, so I got my rain jacket out and put it on, which of course scared the rain away.  The rest of the day was sunshine and blue skies! Not too warm, perfect walking weather.  

I’d promised myself a coffee stop at Furnes Church.  When I got there I met another pilgrim who was just about to leave.  We chatted for a while.  He is from Trondheim and is walking the route in stages, spending about a week each year on the path.  We discovered that we had the same destination this evening.  I sat for a while after he had left, enjoying my coffee and totally forgetting about the snacks I had planned to eat!  

Today the route took me through forests, farmland, quiet residential streets and Brumddal town centre.  I quite enjoy a bit of residential walking.  I find the varied architecture styles fascinating, love a glimpse through an uncurtained window and watching all the robot lawnmowers…well, they are a revelation!  Almost every garden seems to have one toiling away while their owners are nowhere to be seen.  

My home for the night is Koss Gard (Gard means farm).  I’m in the main house, the hostess showed the two of us around, showed us where the food she had made for our dinner was and then left for work, telling us she would be back to make breakfast for us at 7am tomorrow.  She just left us, total strangers, in the home that has been in her family for generations, on our own.  

I think this is one of the things that makes this journey so special.  The places we stay are not just a place to sleep. They are unique, and we are trusted guests.  When I started planning this trip I had no idea  how different the pilgrim accommodation here would be compared to the Spanish albergues.  And I thought that it all sounded very over priced.  I was wrong!  I think tonight will cost me the equivalent of about £55 for dinner, bed (linen and towels included) and breakfast in the most stunning setting. 

Day 7: Ingeborg Refling Hagens House to Hamar

This is the delayed daily pod! I’ve been trying to sort out all sorts of admin.  On an iPhone. With fat fingers.  I’ve successfully completed my application for the Scottish equivalent of a DBS check, and am trying to re jig the rest of my accommodation for this trip so that it feels more like a holiday than a punishment tab!  I called in at the Pilgrim Centre and asked whether I’d be able to find accommodation if I cancel all the bookings I have and then book again a few days in advance.  The woman in there was lovely, and said I ‘should be’ OK… I was really after a ‘You will be absolutely fine’ or an ‘Are you insane?’ response.  I’m not assisted with planning by what I have come to find is the habitual slow response to emails and phone enquiries.  I’ve phoned and emailed a place I’d like to stay at the day after tomorrow.  She said on the phone she would respond to my email…but nothing has arrived.  I don’t want to start cancelling other places until I hear back.  It is all a bit stressful!

Anyway… back to today. 28km from Tangen to Hamar.   Not overly hilly, on good woodland paths and quite a lot of road.  An easy-ish day.  I had a breakfast snack at the Hill of Joy.  This was a point from which early pilgrims could spot more than one church - which apparently made them fall to their knees in joyous celebration.  I was pleased to see a bench! 

I do miss breakfast (and second breakfast) coffee stops! A carton of juice is just not the same.  

The countryside was lovely, lush, green, rolling hills with frequent views down to the lake.  At Stange Church I ‘caught up with’ one of the girls who had been at the same place as me last night.  I was hugely confused! She had still been asleep when I’d left, and I had no memory of being overtaken.  The explanation was quite simple…she’d taken a bus from Tangen to Stange!

At around 21km, when my need for caffeine was getting quietly insistent, I found myself on a golf course.  I walked past at least three signs that said, in English, ‘all are  welcome to use the cafe at the club house, we serve food and drinks!’ Wonderful I thought as I skipped along, thoughts of a steaming hot, black coffee propelling me on.  I soon spied a deck area with tables and chairs and, yes, a cafe.  

I had a moment of worry about the umbrellas being down, but is was only just after 10am.  I walked in, confident in the imminent arrival of a cup of coffee in my hands, to see a couple of people milling about.  They informed me that the cafe was not open, it was only open Wednesday to Saturday each week!  I was not a happy bear.  

I trudged on.  The last seven caffeine deprived kilometres dragged a bit.  I tried to get excited by the lake, and the Olympic Hall - that really looks a bit like the end or the Star Trek film where they crashed the Enterprise, but I just wanted to stop and get a coffee… and maybe an little something to eat.

I’ve got a hotel room tonight, breakfast is included but isn’t served until 6.30am, so I’ll have to have a lie in!  Once I’d checked in and had a shower, I set off to the Pilgrim Centre, stopping on the way for, at long last, a coffee!  And a waffle.  She asked if I wanted jam or ‘brown cheese’ with the waffle.  I shall have to google brown cheese… as it was I went for neither.

After the Pilgrim Centre I went to look at the ruins of the cathedral.  They are enclosed in a spectacular glass structure:

Then after a quick walk around Hamar to see what I fancy for supper and a quick look in a gorgeous yarn shop, it was back to the hotel for admin… I’m still waiting for an email reply! 

Day 6: Spitalen Old Schoolhouse to Ingeborg Refling Hagens House

An early start today! I woke stupidly early and needed a pee.  By the time I’d walked to the bottom of the garden (that’s where the loo was) and back I knew that there was no way I was getting back to sleep, so quietly packed my stuff and left.  I didn’t dare to make a coffee, as steam from the kettle had set off the fire alarm twice yesterday.  It had been a relaxing evening, chatting with the same group who had been at Haug Pilgrim’s Hostel.  The owner of the School Hous popped in during the evening to check we were all OK and it was interesting to hear a little of his story and the history of the building.

The good thing about near constant daylight is that leaving early doesn’t necessitate a head torch!  I was also aware that the better weather was forecast for the morning, and the idea of avoiding another wet walk held some appeal.  

The first half of today’s route was through primeval forest.  Yesterday’s rain had added to the many streams and turned many of the paths into babbling brooks.  Birdsong and the sound of water flowing were my constant companions. Yet again I was having to be careful where I placed my feet.  Progress was slower than I would have liked and expected, and it is surprisingly exhausting!  When I have finished this post I and going to have a look at the rest of my itinerary.  I have a few 33km days coming up, and I think that is probably too much on such tricky ground.  I also don’t want to look back and regret not spending a bit more time in some of the places I am passing through.

Emerging from the woods the first thing I saw was Mjøsa lake.  The largest lake in Norway. The path follows the eastern edge taking me all the way to Lillehamer where it meets with the western path.  From here the route was on small roads, lots of great biews.  Norway very much shuts up shop on Sunday.  When the guide book warned that there were no shops until Tangen (where I am now) it failed to mention that if you arrive on Sunday that one shop will be closed! The nearest open shop is 5k away.  

The church in Tangen was open.  A very pretty one!  I popped in for a quick look.  A wonderful octagonal wooded structure.

Tonight I am staying in the house that used to belong to Ingeborg Refling Hagens, a famous Norwegian writer.  I thought I’d be in the little cabin in the garden, but my room is in the main house.  It is quite odd to be staying in a building that has huge cultural importance and lots of unique artefacts.  

Day 5: Haug Pilgrim Hostel to Spitalen Old School House

It turns out that sleeping in a structure with a glass roof during heavy rain is not easy.  I could have dug through my (packed and almost ready to go) back pack to find my earplugs, but thought I’d probably be properly awake if I did that and it wouldn’t be worth trying to get back to sleep.  So I got up at about 5am, put on my waterproof and set off.  I figured that the  earlier I arrived the longer all my stuff would have to dry.  Plus I’d get first dibs on the bed spaces! 

The rain was pretty relentless for the first two thirds of today’s walk.  I had my hat on and my hood up.  I decided that, as I could hear bugger all over the rustle of my hood, I may as well catch up on a couple of podcasts.  I got my weekly parkrun fix by listening to With Me Now and my weekly laugh out loud dose of fun facts from No Such Thing As a Fish.  I had to turn both of them off from time to time to concentrate on where my feet needed to go.  On a day when it wasn’t constantly raining I’d have been glad of my goretex shoes as I tiptoed through the streams that crossed the path. However, the rain was streaming down my legs, being absorbed by my socks and making my feet wet anyway.  

I don’t think I saw another person the whole morning.  I did see a troll. I’d have missed it if I hadn’t chosen that point to sit and scarf down some of the seeds and raisins I’d taken from the hotel breakfast.  They were delicious,  not too sweet and still crunchy. I decided to eat them all, as once I’d popped the KT tape seal they would probably be soggy by tomorrow.

A lot of today was spent on paths with varying degrees of challenge, alongside or sometimes through water.  Lots of up and down, and densely forested.  

I crossed some precarious bridges…

…I’d blanked this one from my mind until I flicked through the photos.   And some bits looked as though a group of cadets had been given a command task to get from A to B without touching C using only a plank of wood and a wish and a prayer!  As a (so called) responsible adult I’d have told the cadets to think again! 

For considerable periods today I had no ‘phone signal at all.  It meant I didn’t get the regular Saturday morning chat notifications from various groups, but it did make me think more seriously about the Garmin satellite ‘thingy’ that my friend John was talking about in Helsinki.  I need to do a bit of research…..

At one point I passed a sign that said it was approximately 6km to today’s end point. Silly me thought, ‘Wow! I’ll be done by 11am!’  Not realising that the word ‘approximately’ was doing some heavy lifting and the trail gods decided to have a laugh.  The next 2km was up a steep rocky slope, down a precipitous stone path, through a boggy and/or under water rocky bit and repeat!  That said I was in the accommodation, showered and having a coffee by 12.05pm.  

And accommodation is something that really stands out as being different to the Spanish Caminos.  For tonight, similar to last night, I was given a code to open the key safe, and payment is by bank transfer or putting cash in a box.  This is an old school house.  I’m the room that used to be the school room as I type.  There is another large room on the ground floor with two beds, some tables and  chairs and two smaller two bed rooms upstairs.  There is a composting toilet at the bottom of the garden and an outside shower (loads of really hot water and a fabulous view) and a full kitchen.  Tonight has cost me 350NOK, but no one will know if I paid it or not, it is all done on trust!  It is quite lovely and I hope that it continues this way for a long time.  I’ve seen Albergues in Spain that would easily fit 20 beds (if not more) in a room this size.