I slept badly last night. I was awake from 2am until at least 4am, no idea why! I ended up reading my book quietly, and having a bit of a lie in before packing my kit up, hoisting my ruck sack on my back and heading out of the door. It won’t be the last time I do this, but it will be the last time I do it with a substantial walk ahead of me until I do something like this again!
I’d felt weary yesterday morning when I set out and, although it was a lovely walk, I found it tough going. I was concerned that today might feel even harder. I was surprised to find that I felt great! I’d walked down into Finistera so obviously the start of today’s walk was uphill - but it was still dark so I couldn’t see how steep and how long the hill was! By the time it got light I was into my stride and the path had levelled out a little - think undulating rather than hilly!
For a lot of the time I could hear and/or see the ocean on my left hand side, and I was walking through woodland with very short sections on the edge of roads and few humans in evidence. For a lot of the time all I could hear was brid song and waves.
I stopped for breakfast in a little town called Lires. The cafe had a sign saying that all food was sourced/made within 5km. I spied pancakes on the menu and ordered some with homemade apple and lemon jam. Delicious, but being a proper pancake not an American one, not very filling. I ordered a croissant and was given a whole meal croissant. I was dubious but it was amazing!
This section of the Camino between Finistera and Muxia has signs pointing in both directions, and pilgrims walking both ways, unlike the Caminos that lead into Santiago where everyone is going in the same direction. One of the first people I saw coming towards me, about 10km before I reached my destination, was the young man from the Czech Republic who had been in the same dorm as I had been in a couple of nights ago.
The descent in to Muxia has stunning views of the coast and the beaches. It is a smaller, less touristy town than Finistera. And, while that means I couldn’t buy an ice cream this afternoon, it does feel much nicer. As I arrived before my 1pm check in time I didn’t bother trying to leave my stuff at the hotel I’d booked, and decided to go straight up to the headland.
It was only an extra kilometre each way to get to the Santuario da Virxe da Barca. This church was built at the site where apparently the Virgin Mary appeared in a stone boat to encourage the apostle James. There is also a sculpture called ‘A Ferida’ which was erected in tribute to the volunteers who helped to clean up the Prestige oil spill. And there is a proper lighthouse! Nowhere to get a beer or an ice cream though - which just goes to prove you can’t have everything!
I spent some time mooching around, going out as far as I dared on the rocks (this is the Costa da Morte!) and throwing the stone I bought from the Isle of Tiree into the Atlantic. I then headed back down into town to check into my hotel, sort out my Camino certificate and get lunch. As we are near the sea there is plenty of seafood on offer - I had razor clams as I’d never had them before. They were amazing!
All three trips I have been on this summer have had a connection to the Atlantic (Gibraltar, Tiree before this). I couldn’t have been on three more different adventures, but this last one has been exceptional. It has been a completely selfish indulgence. The luxury of time to spend on oneself is so rare and so precious. I have thoroughly enjoyed not having to consider anyone else’s opinion. I am so grateful to my family for putting up with me being away for so long (please don’t change the locks!) and to all the wonderful people I have met along the way. I’ve had lots of time to think, plenty of time on my own, but always someone around when I’ve wanted company. I don’t know what I expected from the Camino - mainly because I refused to do much research. I was always sure that, barring injury, I would complete it - because I am stubborn. I through I would find walking quite tedious and I’d be desperate for distraction. It was never boring! Occasionally (walking into Burgos) it was painful, it was miserable walking for hours and hours in the pouring rain (but the camaraderie in the Albergues afterwards made up for that and for having to put wet shoes back on the next day), but most of the time it was AMAZING.
I’ve spent most of the last month with the biggest grin on my face, often laughing out loud at the sheer joy of being here doing this silly journey! I’ve walked from France, over the Pyrenees and all the way across Spain to the Atlantic Coast. I was never a walker - I’d occasionally go for a walk after Sunday lunch. I suppose now I have to admit that walking is OK!
I don’t think this will by my last Camino - at least I hope it won’t be! I know I am repeating myself here but, while the things I have seen have been spectacular, it is the people I have met along the way who have made my Camino so special. Thank you all!
Congratulations! A great experience.
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