I had a lie in this morning until 5am! Yesterday had felt like an incredibly busy day, I felt compelled to see the sites in Santiago and then remembered, as I sat down to dinner, that I had 2 days next week to explore all that the city had to offer. I didn’t go to the Pilgrim Mass in the cathedral, but have decided that I will do so before I go home. There are four a day to chose from and, as I am staying in Albergues, I need to be out and about all day - so an hour indoors (with somewhere to sit) might be quite welcome! Especially if it is raining!
I’ve had enough rain today to last for at least the rest of the year, and probably well into next year too! I left at about 5.30am in a light drizzle, which wasn’t ideal because it limited my visibility but I had high hopes that it would clear up later. Spoiler alert: it didn’t clear up at all! After yesterday’s crowded trails it was nice to have some peace and quiet this morning. The route was tricky to find at the start, but once out of the city and on the more rural paths it became much clearer. Bridges and stepping stones were used to cross several rivers. There was a diversion due to road works that took started off being clearly signposted and then just left me stranded at a cross roads! Thank goodness for the Buen Camino app that allowed me to navigate my way back and walk through the road works.
Breakfast, at a cafe with excellent murals and a cat that looked like Tiggs (and was just as grumpy) was a welcome respite from the rain, and allowed me to warm up while the sky lightened. Another good croissant!
At Ponte Maceira I crossed another excellent bridge and I reflected that this part of Spain seems much more prosperous than the villages and towns we walked through prior to Santiago. I’m sure the scenery was lovely, but visibility was limited by the cloud and the fact that my glasses were either covered in rain or fogged up!
I contemplated a second breakfast in Negreira, but the idea of sitting in soggy clothes didn’t appeal. Had I not booked a bed in A Peña I am 90% certain I would have looked for a room in Negreira. The rain and wind had picked up making decisions less than ideal. Still, it was only 8.5km to A Peña. Most of the day had felt as though it was uphill, and this continued to be the theme for the last section, The rain increased, I was walking up hill in a path that now resembled a river. It was not fun. My shoes may be waterproof, but my socks were acting as wicks taking the water from my legs into my shoes. I could feel the water sloshing around inside my shoes! I couldn’t see much, could only hear the rain on my hood and I just wanted to stop - but there was no shelter!
Arriving at the Albergue, for once at the correct time not an hour early, I spotted Beth (from North Dakota) who I’d met at various places long the Camino (we’d been at several Albergues at the same time). She’d been waiting for nearly an hour for the place to open and was really cold. We checked in, had showers and pooled our washing and splashed out for a dryer as well (nothing is drying outside today) before retiring to the nearest cafe for food. Bacon, egg and chips for two plus a beer for me. Beth had the largest gin I have ever seen! Must have been a 15 second pour! We ate our food and laughed at the ridiculousness of how horrible today had been while watching other walkers trudging in. We discussed tomorrow’s plans - found out we were both aiming for the same place so booked a private twin room rather than bunks in a dorm. The cost is about the same - but but we get our own bathroom. It also means we don’t have to leave so early tomorrow as we don’t need to arrive early to guarantee a bottom bunk!
There is a very strong ‘blitz spirit’ in the Albergue this afternoon as we all try to get everything dry. The owner has lit the log burner - one of my room mates from the Czech Republic is drying his passport and his euros by the stove! And we are planning how to get to the cafe for the community dinner without getting totally drenched again!
Camino life continues…
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