Camino Day 26: Fonfria to Sarria

 I overslept this morning!  I thought I’d set an alarm but obviously hadn’t, so woke up at 5.30am and had to get a wiggle on to get out of the door by just after 6am.  I’d been keen to get an early start today because I wanted to do just over 20 miles.  At least I wasn’t further delayed by forgetting walking

The weather was much warmer this morning than on previous days, a cloudy sky and rumours of rain ahead meant that I had my waterproof at the ready, but I got to my breakfast stop in Tricastella without needing it.  I seem to arrive at breakfast just as lots of people who have stayed in that village are having breakfast and getting ready to set off - which makes for a sociable gathering and a bit of chat as we all move on together.  

As I left Tricastella I saw this sign:

I had already decided that I would go on the route via Samos as it follows river paths rather than roads, but seeing the difference in distance clearly laid out nearly made me change my mind.  The route, through tiny villages and alongside the river, did not disappoint.  I spent some time chatting with a group of doctors who had met a medical school 38 years ago, bumped into an American church group I’d seen in Rabanal and Las Herrerias.  It is an amazingly small world on the Camino!

I didn’t spend long in Samos.  I had a quick look at the monastery but didn’t go inside.  I wanted to get to my destination before the threatened rain arrived.  It was a straightforward route, fairly flat, but I was plagued by dogs in almost every small village I walked through.  I feel slightly more confident having walking poles in hand, but still don’t enjoy being followed by big dogs with their owners nowhere to be seen. 

I got to Sarria and immediately wondered why I had thought I should stop here. It isn’t a pretty city.  It is the point at which a lot of people start their Camino.  If you are applying for university in Spain and have walked the 112km from Sarria to Santiago it gives your application a boost.  I’ve noticed the influx of pilgrims and the effect they have on booking accommodation.  I have had to cut short my distance tomorrow as there is no accommodation available in my target town.  So far I have been booking one day in advance, but even booking two days in advance left me no available options. I now have somewhere for tomorrow and Sunday.  I’m not sure how far I want to go on Monday so can’t book ahead just yet.  

The new pilgrims are recognisable because they have bigger bags, cleaner shoes, and paler skin than the rest of us.  They also make more noise in the dorm during the afternoon when lots of us are trying to sleep.

All being well I should get to Santiago on Tuesday.  Part of me thinks I will try to time it so I get there early, get my paperwork sorted and then head off towards Finisterra and stay just beyond Santiago.  

Camino Day 25: Trabadelo to Fonfria

 We had an excellent community meal last night at Casa Susi.  This albergue had been recommended by so many people and really lived up to expectations.  The food was delicious = mostly the produce of the garden attached to the property, the rose wine (as well as the red) slipped down easily.  The hosts joined us for dinner, We shared stories, hopes and dreams as well as good food.  I had seconds!

Despite thinking that I was tired and even though the beds were very comfy, I struggled to fall asleep.  At midnight, having gone to bed at 9.30pm I was still awake.  I must have fallen asleep eventually as I woke up just before 4.45am and decided I may as well get up.  I think I am getting quite good at leaving a dorm room without making a noise although I always worry that the charging plug will make a noise as I pull it out of the wall!  I generally grab all my gear and take it into a corridor to sort everything out.  It was all going so well this morning, I had everything packed away and set off out of the door before 5.15am.  I was just leaving the town of Trabadelo when I realised that I’d left my damned poles behind AGAIN! Poles and boots can’t be taken into the dorm rooms so you have to leave them in a designated place - which is different in each albergue. This means they are not always in what I would consider a logical place.  I called myself some rude names as I trudged back to get them, waiting outside until I could hear someone moving around inside who would be able to unlock the door.

Today’s route took in the infamous ascent to O Cebreiro.  I was keen to set out early so that I would not get stuck on a hill in the heat of the day!  And as the forecast said that it would be 16c at 6am it looked like it could be a hot day.  I decided not to wear my down jacket.  This was a mistake.  The forecast lied!  Once out of the town it was bitterly cold.  By the time I had covered the 10km to Las Herrerías my hands (despite being in gloves) were so cold that I couldn’t turn off my head torch when I went into a cafe for breakfast!

I stopped for quite a long time as I decided I wasn’t going out again until it was light and at least looked warmer out there.  Two cups of strong, black coffee helped to warm me up and the apple cake was delicious.  At last I could put it off no longer and it was time to tackle this mythical beast of a hill.  

It wasn’t that bad.  I think yesterday’s walk was tougher and, had my legs not been tired from that one, today’s would have felt even easier.  I seemed to be passing people all the way up - even though I was pausing to takes lots of photos and admire the views.  The coffees I had earlier in the morning meant that by the time I got to La Laguna de Castilia I was in need of  a wee break!  I was just drinking a lovely fresh orange juice when Louise appeared. We walked and chatted, later joined by Zora, until they stopped at Linares for the evening.  

As we approached O Cebreiro, still waiting for the steep bit, we heard bag pipes playing!   We had another snack/drink stop and I bought some postcards in the souvenir shop.  It was mainly down hill from there to Linares and the time passed quickly as we chatted away. 

After we parted in Linares I had another 10k to go.  It was mostly downhill but with one or two really nasty steep uphill bits thrown in for good measure!  They were far worse than anything else today.  

Fonfria is a tiny village.  The albergue here is comfortable with very friendly staff.  Cows seem to outnumber humans - but I seem to have got used to the smell of cow poo now!  A community meal is on the cards tonight… I must go and find out what time it is happening!

Camino day 24: Cacabelos to Trabadelo

What an amazing day!

I am not going to lie, I did very little research for this trip.  I knew the starting and end points, I knew that the path was pretty clearly marked and that accommodation was easy to find,  That was all I really wanted to know.  I didn’t want to set out with a whole lot of expectations.  I knew that other people had managed to complete this, therefore it was eminently possible that I would be able to complete it too.  

But, but… in the lead up to today so many people had said ‘which route are you going to take?’ I knew that there were two occasions that I could take ‘variants’ that would take me away from the original route which runs alongside a road for a lot of the time. And then I had done a bit (a very little bit) of research and read things like this on the Buen Camino App ‘from Villafranca del Bierzo the ascent begins smoothly, but will grow more and more steep until becoming almost impracticable.’  I won’t lie, I was a little concerned, but decided to throw caution to the wind and take both the variants.

The first variant, up to Villafranca del Bierzo, was across vineyards.  It was dark, so I didn’t really benefit much from this - but at least I wasn’t walking on asphalt with cars and trucks thundering past.  Spanish drivers drive really fast!  Villafranca was bigger than I’d expected and made an excellent place to stop for breakfast.  I arrived just before sunrise and as I relaxed after my early morning walk it was fun to watch the pilgrims who had stayed in the town overnight waking up and having their breakfast too.

The variant path from Villafranca was stunning.  I was disappointed that I was at the decision point before the lady mentioned in this review had arrived (a later walker did see her and was dissuaded)

I have never enjoyed a walk so much!  Yes, there was a hill, but it wasn’t so steep as to be ‘impracticable!’  In fact it was perfect - just enough to get the heart rate up, then a flat bit that encouraged you to stop and take photos!  I didn’t see any other walkers the whole time I was walking on this trail.  I could post a million photos but, unless you were actually there, I just don’t think that you would have any idea of the scale, the height that had been gained so quickly.  I had the biggest, stupidest grin on my face!  I read poetry out loud, (‘Still I rise’ by Maya Angelou if you are interested) and just revelled in the fact that I was here, doing this bonkers walk. 

  

Pradela is a gorgeous town with just one Albergue - which was happy to serve coffee and second breakfast/early lunch.  A lovely kitten kept me company while I enjoyed tomatoes (grown right next to the albergue) on toast.  Utterly delicious with the most amazing view.  

From there it was a short (3km) downhill drop down into the village of Trabadelo and the Casa Susi Albergue which has gained quite a reputation on the Camino (and is the reason for me only doing 21k today as I wanted to stay there).  I arrived before the 1pm check in time, but Susi’s partner Fermin was happy for me to leave my bag and poles, which I did while I explored the village (aka found a bar where I could sit outside and drink beer!)

A little while later I was joined by Louise and Zora.  The other reason I shortened my day today.  I did not start the Camino expecting to make friends.  I obviously didn’t think I’d spend the whole time in splendid isolation like a Trappist monk, I thought that I would spend a little bit of time with various people and that it would consist of inconsequential chit chat.  Meeting these two Australians has been so much more than that.  Looking at their plans and mine, I suspect that tonight may be the last time we spend time together.  That makes me a little sad, but so glad that we have had this time.  

Camino Day 23: El Acebo to Cacabelos and lessons in room share etiquette.

 Last night, in an 8 bed dorm, there was a mother and daughter from Sweden, a lady from Jerusalem and me.  This was a nice, if rather warm, dorm room.  Each of the beds had a charging point and a reading lamp, and a little shelf for putting glasses/‘phones etc. on.  The mother and daughter were delightful.  The lady from Jerusalem didn’t seem to be terribly interested in engaging with anyone, which is fine but, when she asked where she could find an ATM and I suggested that she might find one in the town we had just walked through, she responded “You call that a ‘town!’ What sort of awful place do you come from that you think that is a town?”  Dear reader, I was a good girl.  Sort of, I just said ‘London’ and walked out.  By 9pm last night three of us were in bed and shortly after I for one was fast asleep.  Only to be woken by a body looming over me and pulling my charging plug out of the socket (I was charging my ‘phone, my watch and my head torch).  I may have emitted a small scream.  At which point I was told ‘Don’t be drama queen!’ And when I asked her what the actual f*ck she thought she was doing she said that the ‘light is too strong!’ I told her that she wouldn’t notice it if she closed her eyes and thanked her kindly for waking me up.  The temptation to sleep with my reading light on was strong - but the Camino must be making me into a nicer person.  It took me ages to get back to sleep!  

The ‘too strong light!’

I dressed in many layers again today, but it was warmer than it has been over the last few mornings, so much so that after about half an hour I didn’t need my gloves anymore.  What I did need was eagle eyes and concentration!  The first 8km are steeply down hill on loose, rocky paths.  It was V E R Y slow going - taking me over two hours to get to Molinaseca - arriving just before sunrise.  Molinaseca is charming - with a lovely bridge, and an open cafe for breakfast.  

The next place of note was Ponferrada.  Had I done any research for this trip I would have known that I was going to see an amazing fairy tale castle that dates back to the Knights Templar but, like just about everything else on this trip, it was a wonderful surprise!  I was also surprised to see a large group of teenagers standing just outside the school gates smoking cigarettes at what I can only assume was morning break time.  A lot of people smoke here, but it was still a shock to see so many school children smoking during the school day.  I poked my head inside the basilica - but am feeling as though I have seen far too many churches and they are all merging in to one big gold leaf festooned ostentatious display of wealth. 

Due to the fact that I’d covered the first 8km at a snail’s pace, today’s walk took far longer than normal.  I had left before breakfast was served this morning, so they had made me up a picnic.  A baguette filled with Serrano ham and cheese, some water and some fruit.  I had a little picnic on a park bench about 5km before Cacabelos and watched other pilgrims pass by.  

Tonight I am in a private room in an Albergue.  It feels like the height of luxury to have a room with my own bathroom - and fluffy towels!  I’ve found the supermarket in town, so I may well go and get supplies for supper and have an early night.  Tomorrow’s walk is short.  Only 18km as I want to stay at an Albergue that everyone is raving about.  

Camino Day 22: Murias de Rechivaldo to El Acebo…

 … or downhill is much more difficult than uphill!

Last night saw a very sociable community meal in the courtyard of our albergue.  Good wine, excellent food and better company! 

I was up early as normal, sneaking out through the door as quietly as possible and being greeted by the most amazing moon! 

It was another chilly morning, I am so glad that I packed gloves!  Today was all about hills, with 750m of elevation gained and a max altitude of 1520m.  None of the uphills were too hard, enough that I knew I was making a bit of an effort, but not enough to slow me down.  And the views!  I must have taken eleventy billion photos - but none of them do justice to the landscape that was in front of

I stopped for breakfast at the first place I saw in Rabanal.  I am not making the mistake of walking past somewhere that does breakfast ever again.  I was 15km in and caffeine was the first order of business!  The cafe was busy, I ended up sitting at a table with a man from the USA who was insisting on showing me the upcoming elevation.  I’d rather not know.  Luckily a BBC News thing flashed up on my ‘phone about another assassination attempt on Trump - so I diverted him with that until I was ready to leave.  Breakfast was good though!  Rabanal was pretty and, as I left I was caught up with lots of people who were just setting out for the day, so chatted for a while with them before drifting me.  

The next major ‘Camino highlight’ was Cruz de Ferro.  The custom is that one brings a stone from home and leaves it here as a symbol - putting down a burden.  I was happy to go along with the custom.  I had very little expectation of feeling any real emotion or meaning but I can’t deny that a tear or two may have been shed as I placed a tiny (25g max) stone that I had picked up on one of Tiree’s beautiful beaches at the cross.  It is not up to me to carry guilt for things that are not my fault. I will try to put that guilt aside and realise that what I am is enough.  

From this point on the route was mainly down hill.  But that does not mean it was easy!  Loose rocks and and uneven path meant maximum concentration was needed - especially as this was 16 miles into a 20 mile walk so my legs, whilst still younger than my face, were a little tired!  I was grateful for my sticks - they saved me a number of times when my eyes were on the vistas rather than my feet!  Those last few miles were by far my slowest of the day.  I am painfully aware that, at my age, it won’t be a green stick fracture and would probably involve an air ambulance to get me off the trail!  

El Acebo is a quaint little town.  As I arrived I was delighted to see a bar with the name ‘Albergue La Casa Del Peregrino’ outside - as this was the name of the albergue I had booked.  I walked in, made myself known to the man behind the bar and said that I wanted to check in.  He said ‘one moment’ (several times) and about twenty minutes later informed me that there was another place with the same name 400m down the road which is where I was actually booked in.  It was in reality 550m.  I know because I didn’t want a gap in my Strava so logged it.  I later found out that the same place (possibly the same man) had ripped off my friend Zora when she had bought a beer there while waiting for Louise - giving change for a 5euro note rather than the 10 euro one that had been handed over.  

The 550m walk was well worth it. Albergue La Casa Del Peregrino is beautiful! It has a pool, a bar, a restaurant and private rooms as well as the albergue (dorm) rooms. I did my chores (shower/laundry) and was sitting on the balcony reapplying KT tape when I saw Zora.  She was here to see if there were any rooms available for here and Louise.  So the disreputable gang of three is reunited again this evening. 

Beers have been drunk (me and Zora), swimming has been done (Louise - bloody freezing apparently) and a pilgrim meal will be eaten tonight. 

Camino Day 21: Hospital de Orbigo to Murias de Rechivaldo

 Up early this morning and, for once, I got breakfast before I left!  The Albergue had a ‘donativo’ breakfast laid out on the table, so I toasted some bread, had a little cheese (from the fridge) and a yogurt before putting a few euros in the donation box and making my way.  When I started out sunrise was at 7.24am, today it was 8.04am.  First light is a wee bit earlier, but it does lead to head torch anxiety.  I try to use it as little as possible and am always relieved when it is light enough not to need it any longer. 

Today my plan was to walk into Astorga, have a look around and then walk ‘about 5km’ beyond the city to give me a 20km day.  I was nervous as my ‘other leg’ had decided to join the shin splint pity party.  I’d iced it last night, strapped it up, done all the stretches but it was with a sense of trepidation that I got out of bed this morning.  Only to find that everything felt fine.  I think it was the right decision not to go for a longer distance today though.  And I may never remove the tape from either leg - just in case!

I’ve left the Meseta behind now, and there is a welcome return of hills and trees!  It makes the walking more interesting both in terms of views and muscles used! I stopped for coffee on the way and arrived in Astorga a little before 9.30am.  I feel that this city doesn’t get its fair share of acclaim in comparison to Pamplona, Burgos and Leon.  It is a beautiful city.  The Cathedral has a very pretty façade and the Gaudi Palace is stunning both inside and outside. I had my first encounter with busegrinos - a group travelling by coach from city to city to complete their Camino all organised by a tour company on behalf of their church group.

From Astorga it was a short hop to Murias de Rechivaldo, although the Albergue I was booked into was, teasingly, at the far end of the village!  I’ve done my chores (laundry, plan for tomorrow) and am about to sit and relax in the gorgeous courtyard.

Camino Day 20. Leon to Hospital de Orbigo

 Today did not have the most auspicious start.  I carefully contorted my way out of the top bunk, quietly dressed and left the room ready to get an early start on a longish stage.  I put the key card in the box provided, closed the door behind me and off I went.  Navigating out of towns is often quite tricky,  especially in the dark as it is hard to see the signs.  I check the map on my ‘phone regularly to make sure that I am going in the right direction.  I was checking my ‘phone at one point when I thought that it seemed a lot less hassle than normal to do so.  Yes, I’d had to remove my gloves (and that was not fun as it was jolly chilly) but something was missing….. I’d left my walking poles in the hostel.  The locked hostel, and it still wasn’t 6am so how many people would be awake?  

I turned back.  Luckily I’d only gone about 1km. I could get in to the lobby of the hostel,  but not any further.  I knocked - but no one answered.  I sat on the stairs and called myself all sorts of names.  Then I remembered that we’d been given the option of checking in remotely on our ‘phones which would generate a ‘virtual key.’  I’d given up on the process as my Spanish isn’t good enough and Google Translate wasn’t terribly useful, but wondered if a ‘virtual key’ had been generated anyway - it had!  I was in and able to pick up my walking poles and set out all over again.

The first 7.5km uphill out of Leon are not pretty.  Very industrial - not even an open coffee shop to recommend them!  After that I walked through several small towns that all said they had restaurants, but they were closed.  As the day warmed up (I’d started the day in long trousers and a down jacket) I found a convenient point to stop and remove some layers, eat an orange and practise my French with a couple who had the same idea.  While I was doing this Louise came into view.  

We both had the same destination in mind, but were booked in to different Albergues, so we walked together.  I have walked most of this journey alone, by choice, but when I have walked with others for any length of time has been a really special experience. 

 

The route today wasn’t the most attractive, we eventually found an open restaurant at 20.5km, by which point we’d have eaten anywhere - but it was actually a really nice place.  Chatting away, laughing a lot, crying a bit, the time passed quickly and we soon found ourselves crossing the bridge across the Orbigo river.  

After recent fiascos in the dining area we checked out the opening times of restaurants and identified some possibilities.  Louise’s albergue doesn’t do dinner, mine does - but when I asked they couldn’t guarantee that it would be nut free (it is a vegan place), so we are planning to meet for a drink at 6pm and then find whichever place will feed us nice and early!

Until then it is snooze time!  Laundry is done and hanging on the line.