Today did not have the most auspicious start. I carefully contorted my way out of the top bunk, quietly dressed and left the room ready to get an early start on a longish stage. I put the key card in the box provided, closed the door behind me and off I went. Navigating out of towns is often quite tricky, especially in the dark as it is hard to see the signs. I check the map on my ‘phone regularly to make sure that I am going in the right direction. I was checking my ‘phone at one point when I thought that it seemed a lot less hassle than normal to do so. Yes, I’d had to remove my gloves (and that was not fun as it was jolly chilly) but something was missing….. I’d left my walking poles in the hostel. The locked hostel, and it still wasn’t 6am so how many people would be awake?
I turned back. Luckily I’d only gone about 1km. I could get in to the lobby of the hostel, but not any further. I knocked - but no one answered. I sat on the stairs and called myself all sorts of names. Then I remembered that we’d been given the option of checking in remotely on our ‘phones which would generate a ‘virtual key.’ I’d given up on the process as my Spanish isn’t good enough and Google Translate wasn’t terribly useful, but wondered if a ‘virtual key’ had been generated anyway - it had! I was in and able to pick up my walking poles and set out all over again.
The first 7.5km uphill out of Leon are not pretty. Very industrial - not even an open coffee shop to recommend them! After that I walked through several small towns that all said they had restaurants, but they were closed. As the day warmed up (I’d started the day in long trousers and a down jacket) I found a convenient point to stop and remove some layers, eat an orange and practise my French with a couple who had the same idea. While I was doing this Louise came into view.
We both had the same destination in mind, but were booked in to different Albergues, so we walked together. I have walked most of this journey alone, by choice, but when I have walked with others for any length of time has been a really special experience.
The route today wasn’t the most attractive, we eventually found an open restaurant at 20.5km, by which point we’d have eaten anywhere - but it was actually a really nice place. Chatting away, laughing a lot, crying a bit, the time passed quickly and we soon found ourselves crossing the bridge across the Orbigo river.
After recent fiascos in the dining area we checked out the opening times of restaurants and identified some possibilities. Louise’s albergue doesn’t do dinner, mine does - but when I asked they couldn’t guarantee that it would be nut free (it is a vegan place), so we are planning to meet for a drink at 6pm and then find whichever place will feed us nice and early!
Until then it is snooze time! Laundry is done and hanging on the line.
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