We had an excellent community meal last night at Casa Susi. This albergue had been recommended by so many people and really lived up to expectations. The food was delicious = mostly the produce of the garden attached to the property, the rose wine (as well as the red) slipped down easily. The hosts joined us for dinner, We shared stories, hopes and dreams as well as good food. I had seconds!
Despite thinking that I was tired and even though the beds were very comfy, I struggled to fall asleep. At midnight, having gone to bed at 9.30pm I was still awake. I must have fallen asleep eventually as I woke up just before 4.45am and decided I may as well get up. I think I am getting quite good at leaving a dorm room without making a noise although I always worry that the charging plug will make a noise as I pull it out of the wall! I generally grab all my gear and take it into a corridor to sort everything out. It was all going so well this morning, I had everything packed away and set off out of the door before 5.15am. I was just leaving the town of Trabadelo when I realised that I’d left my damned poles behind AGAIN! Poles and boots can’t be taken into the dorm rooms so you have to leave them in a designated place - which is different in each albergue. This means they are not always in what I would consider a logical place. I called myself some rude names as I trudged back to get them, waiting outside until I could hear someone moving around inside who would be able to unlock the door.
Today’s route took in the infamous ascent to O Cebreiro. I was keen to set out early so that I would not get stuck on a hill in the heat of the day! And as the forecast said that it would be 16c at 6am it looked like it could be a hot day. I decided not to wear my down jacket. This was a mistake. The forecast lied! Once out of the town it was bitterly cold. By the time I had covered the 10km to Las Herrerías my hands (despite being in gloves) were so cold that I couldn’t turn off my head torch when I went into a cafe for breakfast!
I stopped for quite a long time as I decided I wasn’t going out again until it was light and at least looked warmer out there. Two cups of strong, black coffee helped to warm me up and the apple cake was delicious. At last I could put it off no longer and it was time to tackle this mythical beast of a hill.
It wasn’t that bad. I think yesterday’s walk was tougher and, had my legs not been tired from that one, today’s would have felt even easier. I seemed to be passing people all the way up - even though I was pausing to takes lots of photos and admire the views. The coffees I had earlier in the morning meant that by the time I got to La Laguna de Castilia I was in need of a wee break! I was just drinking a lovely fresh orange juice when Louise appeared. We walked and chatted, later joined by Zora, until they stopped at Linares for the evening.
As we approached O Cebreiro, still waiting for the steep bit, we heard bag pipes playing! We had another snack/drink stop and I bought some postcards in the souvenir shop. It was mainly down hill from there to Linares and the time passed quickly as we chatted away.
After we parted in Linares I had another 10k to go. It was mostly downhill but with one or two really nasty steep uphill bits thrown in for good measure! They were far worse than anything else today.
Fonfria is a tiny village. The albergue here is comfortable with very friendly staff. Cows seem to outnumber humans - but I seem to have got used to the smell of cow poo now! A community meal is on the cards tonight… I must go and find out what time it is happening!
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