Camino day 24: Cacabelos to Trabadelo

What an amazing day!

I am not going to lie, I did very little research for this trip.  I knew the starting and end points, I knew that the path was pretty clearly marked and that accommodation was easy to find,  That was all I really wanted to know.  I didn’t want to set out with a whole lot of expectations.  I knew that other people had managed to complete this, therefore it was eminently possible that I would be able to complete it too.  

But, but… in the lead up to today so many people had said ‘which route are you going to take?’ I knew that there were two occasions that I could take ‘variants’ that would take me away from the original route which runs alongside a road for a lot of the time. And then I had done a bit (a very little bit) of research and read things like this on the Buen Camino App ‘from Villafranca del Bierzo the ascent begins smoothly, but will grow more and more steep until becoming almost impracticable.’  I won’t lie, I was a little concerned, but decided to throw caution to the wind and take both the variants.

The first variant, up to Villafranca del Bierzo, was across vineyards.  It was dark, so I didn’t really benefit much from this - but at least I wasn’t walking on asphalt with cars and trucks thundering past.  Spanish drivers drive really fast!  Villafranca was bigger than I’d expected and made an excellent place to stop for breakfast.  I arrived just before sunrise and as I relaxed after my early morning walk it was fun to watch the pilgrims who had stayed in the town overnight waking up and having their breakfast too.

The variant path from Villafranca was stunning.  I was disappointed that I was at the decision point before the lady mentioned in this review had arrived (a later walker did see her and was dissuaded)

I have never enjoyed a walk so much!  Yes, there was a hill, but it wasn’t so steep as to be ‘impracticable!’  In fact it was perfect - just enough to get the heart rate up, then a flat bit that encouraged you to stop and take photos!  I didn’t see any other walkers the whole time I was walking on this trail.  I could post a million photos but, unless you were actually there, I just don’t think that you would have any idea of the scale, the height that had been gained so quickly.  I had the biggest, stupidest grin on my face!  I read poetry out loud, (‘Still I rise’ by Maya Angelou if you are interested) and just revelled in the fact that I was here, doing this bonkers walk. 

  

Pradela is a gorgeous town with just one Albergue - which was happy to serve coffee and second breakfast/early lunch.  A lovely kitten kept me company while I enjoyed tomatoes (grown right next to the albergue) on toast.  Utterly delicious with the most amazing view.  

From there it was a short (3km) downhill drop down into the village of Trabadelo and the Casa Susi Albergue which has gained quite a reputation on the Camino (and is the reason for me only doing 21k today as I wanted to stay there).  I arrived before the 1pm check in time, but Susi’s partner Fermin was happy for me to leave my bag and poles, which I did while I explored the village (aka found a bar where I could sit outside and drink beer!)

A little while later I was joined by Louise and Zora.  The other reason I shortened my day today.  I did not start the Camino expecting to make friends.  I obviously didn’t think I’d spend the whole time in splendid isolation like a Trappist monk, I thought that I would spend a little bit of time with various people and that it would consist of inconsequential chit chat.  Meeting these two Australians has been so much more than that.  Looking at their plans and mine, I suspect that tonight may be the last time we spend time together.  That makes me a little sad, but so glad that we have had this time.