The albergue I stayed in last night has to be the worst I have stayed in during this trip. Most of the time I have been impressed with how clean everything is, this one was a wee bit grubby. The woman who checked us in was not terribly friendly and was VERY reluctant to allow anyone to have a bottom bunk! I went into town to get supper as there was no community meal on offer, returning at around 8pm ready to settle down for the night.
Some of my fellow occupants had other ideas. Two Spanish girls in beds near me carried on a loud conversation, interspersed with ‘phone calls, with the other caller on speaker so we could all hear (if not understand in my case) and watching video clips on ‘phones - again without using earphones. This carried on until about 8.30pm, when they went out to get dinner, and resumed at 10pm when they returned.
In the morning I was ready to leave just after 5am, but could not get the door unlocked. The key was in the lock to the door, but it wouldn’t turn fully in either direction and could not be removed. I looked around for the fire exit, deciding that I would use that instead. There was no fire exit. This locked door was the only way out. I fiddled with the key some more, trying to ease it out of the lock. I tried jiggling the handle to see it that helped - but it didn’t. In the end I kicked the door in frustration and heard a click - now the key turned and the lock opened! I could get out! This seems like a disaster waiting to happen - a locked door that is that temperamental on a door that opens inwards would turn the albergue into a death trap if there was a fire.
Still, I was on my way! It was a short walk out of Portomarin and back into countryside. Most of today’s route was along pretty woodland trails. There is a definite autumnal feel now, from the misty mornings to the leaves just starting to turn. It occurred to me that I left home in summer and will return in the autumn. First breakfast happened in Gonzar - but was so disappointing that even my iPhone refused to record the photo! Sliced white bread that had just about been scared by the grill but not properly toasted. The coffee was OK. I picked up my bag and walked on, chatting with various people as I made my way. I stopped a little later at a cafe attached to an albergue - sadly the food on offer didn’t look too appealing (pre packed croissants and pain au chocolat) so I had a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice instead before heading off.
I plodded merrily on, through tiny picturesque villages, dodging cows being hearded down the main road through towns and past numerous granary stores until suddenly I was at Pontecampana and my albergue was in sight! Of course I arrived an hour before it opened - but I was happy to sit in the courtyard enjoying the gentle sunshine while I waited for 1pm (probably closer to 1.15pm by the time the door opened) and check in time!
It is most definitely laundry day today. The albergue in Sarria had nowhere outdoors to dry washing and it was raining yesterday afternoon, so I spent much of today keeping my fingers crossed for dry weather this afternoon. As I had quite a bit of laundry to do I opted for the luxury of paying to use a washing machine. I asked the lady who checked in at the same time as me if she wanted to put her stuff in with mine - it feels wrong to run a washing machine with so few clothes - so now our clothes are all drying in the sunshine.
This albergue feels much better than the last two I have stayed in. Pontecampana is one of those teeny tiny places that mean you don’t feel obliged to spend the afternoon sightseeing - so after I finish my beer I will go for a snooze before dinner!
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