Camino Day 30: Calle to Santiago de Compostella

I woke up to the sound of rain.  Not a light, autumn drizzle, but a proper downpour.  I had no choice but to get up and go though.  Skin is waterproof and I am not made of sugar.  Once you start walking in the rain it is OK, so long as you position your head torch so that you aren’t looking at silver streaks constantly.  Luckily I had already solved this problem as wearing a head torch on my head with glasses was really annoying, some of the light reflected in the lenses and the frames.  A much better solution was to attach my head torch to the shoulder strap of my rucksack.  

I only had 31km to walk today.  Since when was that a sensible thing to say?  I have discovered that 30 to 32km is a distance that seems to feel comfortable.  I get to my destination feeling that I could go on for a few more kilometres if I had to, but that it is good to stop.  Much less than this distance and I feel that I haven’t really tried, much further and I spend the last few kilometres just hanging on and waiting for it all to be over. 

As normal I had the trail to myself for the first 10(ish)km.  I stopped for breakfast in O Pedrouzo - an amazingly good croissant, coffee and juice for what I assumed would be first breakfast.  As it started to get light the fog became apparent. Remarkably similar to the weather conditions I had on day one when visibility as very limited.  While I’d have loved to see some views it seemed fitting.  After O Pedrouzo I walked for several kilometres with Rod and Jeremy, brothers who were born in Zimbabwe.  One now lives in South Africa and the other in Norwich.  They have completed many Caminos and no doubt will complete more in the future.  Another parallel to day one when I walked with Clayton who lived in Zimbabwe until he was 15 and then moved to Australia.  

The trails were very busy.  Lots of different Caminos merge as they approach Santiago and there also appeared to be school parties walking sections of the route.  As we walked up one short, steep uphill I realised that my Spanish must be improving as I heard them say (of Rod, Jeremy and me) ‘Come on, we can’t let these grannies beat us!’  

For once we had a downhill finish as we came into Santiago.  I am assured that there are excellent glimpses of the cathedral to be seen - but not today!  I did happen to fall into a yarn shop - but constrained myself to some stitch markers made of jet - which is common in Galicia.  Anything I buy has to be really lightweight and easy to carry! 

Soon I was walking past a bagpiper - they are a big thing in this part of Spain, and although they don’t sound quote the same as Scottish bagpipes, and the piper wasn’t wearing a kilt, they are still an evocative sound.  After that it was straight out into the square in front of the cathedral.  I arrived at 12noon and it was HEAVING with people.  I grabbed a quick selfie and then went to find out where my albergue was (answer, hugely conveniently located near the cathedral, pilgrim office and post office) but check in was not until 1.30pm!  

I used the time to go to the pilgrim office to pick up my Compostella and my certificate of distance.  They are in a cardboard tube to keep them safe.  I had expected to wait for AGES, but the process was quick and smooth.  

To be absolutely honest, as a ‘finish’ it was slightly anticlimactic!  I think that Finistera/Muxia, for me, will be a far more satisfying finale.  That will signify walking across a whole country, from the mountains to the ocean.  

Having skipped second breakfast, as I was so close to the end, I went for lunch before showering (and laundry will not happen today as it is still raining).  Lunch was so huge that I left half of it!  Thus fortified I made my way to the cathedral.  It gives Versailles a run for its money in terms of bling!  It had none of the beauty of Leon nor the charm of Astorga and seemed to be all about display.  The rain had driven all the tourists inside so it was also very crowded.  

Back at the Albergue I showered and sorted out my kit.  I need to go out to get supplies - I’m all out of deodorant and could do with some new KT tape (my legs feel fine but I am not risking taking the tape off just yet).  

I am thrilled to have completed this first stage of my adventure.  The next stage is much shorter, and time bound by a flight that is being booked as I type.  My plans to take the train home via Madrid and Paris have fallen foul of a level of complexity and expense that I am not willing to invest.